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Discussion in 'DIRECTV HD DVR/Receiver Discussion' started by jclangston, Apr 12, 2016.
Do you know what that port is for? Does anyone? Pretty sure you could use it to make your own MRV system but it must do something more than that, no?
If I had to guess, I would say they use it for diagnostics and loading the initial software before shipping them out, and it isn't intended for customer use. Directv doesn't support customers connecting anything to it. That doesn't stop them from updating the software and supporting connecting an LCC or hard drive or whatever for the Genie's use, but this is Directv we're talking about so not likely.
Why are the USB ports so friggin’ vulnerable? All of the electronics was connected to a UPS and the outside antenna also went through the surge protector on the UPS. I wonder if the spike came through the coax to the dish? Maybe I’ll start protecting that one, too. Two blown ports in 3 years sucks
D* does not support the eSATA function, never has. eSATA has a purpose.
When an AM21 is connected to Directv DVR this isn't too hard to see. You have the AM21 connected to an antenna while the DVR is connected to coax. Unless the Directv dish and its coax are bonded to the same ground as the antenna and its coax, they won't have the same ground reference and the difference in current will travel along the USB shield. If the USB port doesn't have sufficient ESD protection, it'll fail.
First check to see if your antenna and dish are grounded at all (the coax would go through a ground block with a green wire running down to your house's ground near the electric meter) If they aren't, that's the first thing to fix. Connecting via a UPS's coax surge protector is a last resort only if it is impossible for some reason to ground the dish and antenna. One of those built in surge protector ports may not work very well for Directv anyway, they are designed for cable TV and don't support the higher frequencies Directv uses.
The dish is grounded to copper plumbing under the house. The outside antenna is mounted on a 35 foot tower that is grounded by its own ground rod. So, connecting those two grounds with a 14 gauge wire might be a good idea?
It should be #6 wire, like bonding any two ground rods.
Right now you have THREE grounds, the antenna's grounded through its grounding rod AND the electrical ground (though the UPS's coax port) and dish is grounded to the copper pipe. No wonder you have problems.
You really ought to bond the antenna's grounding rod to your electrical grounding rod (via #6 wire as studechip mentioned) and ground your dish to one of those if at all possible. If not, you should bond that pipe to the electrical grounding rod with #6 wire as well. You should definitely connect your antenna directly to your AM21 and do NOT connect it via the UPS surge port, since it sounds like it is already properly grounded (I assume you have a ground block for the coax which is also connected to the antenna's ground rod or mast?)
The goal is to have a single ground for everything in the house, from a single source. That way if something happens to raise the ground potential (like a nearby lightning strike) everything will be raised by the same amount and there's no current differential that can travel along cable shields in things like USB or HDMI and destroy sensitive ports.
Even though the DVR and AM21 are not grounded (the electrical plug has no ground pin) they are part of a larger system. You have USB from the AM21 to the DVR. You have HDMI from the DVR to a TV or AVR. Maybe you have connections to speakers. If just ONE of those devices has a three pin plug, then the shields of ALL cabling acquires the electrical ground and passes it to the other devices. If they have a different ground, then you will have current traveling across those shields between devices and potentially wreaking havoc. Even devices connected via a 2 pin plug have a "sort of ground", i.e. the neutral which is bonded to ground at the panel. It doesn't behave quite the same way as a true ground but you will have the same problems (it just takes a bigger voltage differential for them to occur depending on the length of the neutral wire back to the panel)
never seen that...
it's against electrical distribution of common all three phases in large scale (inside your block)
Never seen that? It is done in EVERY panel (every main panel, it is done once per service entrance plus at the pole) though you'd have to pull the facing off to see the connection between the ground bar and neutral bar.
I'm talking US distribution here, other countries may be different.
sure, in EU it's disconnected, they done even more by a code - every house have RCB with 10mA threshold, so any touch of ground wire to neutral will trip it and main AC will go off
Only in a sub panel, not the main one. It's fine to bond neutral and common in the main panel since, like slice1900 mentioned, there is a bond between the ground and neutral bars in main panels. Why do you have to bond the neutral and the ground wire in the main panel? - E&S Grounding
In the US that is done on individual receptacles or circuits that require it (in kitchens, bathrooms, etc.) rather than every circuit, via GFCI breakers/outlets with a 5mA threshold.
Given that GFCI receptacles can have a tendency to nuisance trip, I for one would hate to have them trip the main AC. I have to reset the GFCI outlet in my bathroom probably once a month, if it took down my entire house I'd probably have become pissed off long ago and replaced it with a standard receptacle!
It's works fine here without such nuisances; oh yeah,I forgot to mention: AC voltage is 220-230-240V.
It's affect during only my electrical exercises when I pull old cable (usually all three wires L-N-G) through plastic tubes/conduits while neglecting isolate each wire by electrical tape before pull the cable. Telling that ... I did turn off circuit breaker of the line each time!
Freezing/stuttering was absolutely atrocious last night while trying to watch college football.
Happened on 3 different C61Ks.
Happened on the ESPN channels as well as ABC. WABC
Last week I reduced my D* package and upped my cable package.
If not for NFLST I would be done w/ D*.
(The autoskip feature on the Tivo is pretty sweet).
i get all of the above , tech came out changed cables from dish into house , in the house , splitter , lnb, realigned dish , changed out boxs , still the same issue ,
what about cables coming from splitters to clients/minies ?
yes even in the house since they are easy runs
I have none of these issues with the HR54-500.
I have issues with ALL 3 of my C61Ks.
My WVB sets about a foot away from my wireless router.
I am going to try to move my WVB farther away from my router and see if that resolves the issue.