Mitsu DLP -- lamp warm-up time?

I recently purchased one of the 2009 Mitsu DLPs: the WD-65737. Very happy with the picture quality after some self-calibrating.

Having switched from a 2002 Hitachi RP that was almost instantly on, my only "complaint" so far is the time it takes for the lamp to reach full brightness. Basically, when you turn the Mitsu on, the power lamp flashes for a few seconds as it spins up the color wheel (I assume). Then, you get the Mitsu logo screen and, a second or so later, the input is displayed. However, for me, there is another 20-30 seconds as the screen goes from very dim to full brightness.

I was just curious if this was normal for DLPs or not. Since it is a brand new TV, I just want to make sure that is "proper" behavior. If it is, I can live with it -- not a big deal. But I just want to make sure it isn't the sign of a defective lamp from the factory or anything.

Do your DLPs (I noticed quite a few people here with the Mitsu DLPs from 2009 and 2010) behave the same way?

Thanks!

- John...

 

Ok -- I'll have to actually time it tonight and get some better numbers. I just did some more Google searches and found a few people that indicated that it takes a bit (usually they say 15-20 seconds) to reach full brightness. So, maybe it is normal. Although, the 65737 and the 73737 are the exact same units when it comes to that, so we'll have to see.

I did find mention of the EnergyStar mode causes slow lamp warm-up time. If that is it, then I can try switching that off and see if it makes a difference. Then I would know, at least, if that is the case. If it is that, I'll likely put it back to ES mode -- since I don't mind the little time if it actually has a benefit...

- John...

 

Ok -- great -- good to know. I just wanted to make sure nothing was "funny."

- John...

 

Interesting. So, did you leave the Picture Mode on "Brilliant" like it ships? Or change it to at least Bright and hopefully Natural?

And did you turn off the filters? (Deep Field Imager, Sharp Edge, whatever)

Or does the 738 (that's the 2010 model, right) not have those options (or not have them on by default).

Also, what do you mean by "turning 120hz on"? Does the 738 have an option to turn it on and off? The only option on the 737 that I know of related to 120hz is the "smooth 120hz" option which, from what I gather, isn't a matter of turning 120hz on or off, but is instead related to a "smooth" filter -- which most seem to recommend turning off (just like the rest of the filters).

In my experience, filters are for people that don't calibrate their sets properly. So that they look decent uncalibrated.

- John...

 

Indeed -- the more I research this, the more it seems to be normal behavior.

Thanks!

- John...

 

Wow. I'm a bit surprised actually. Most people tend to agree that while Brilliant is the "factory default", these sets are sent way over-bright for the showroom floor. Natural is highly recommend by most -- or maybe just Bright depending on your circumstances. But I can't see leaving the Brilliant mode on -- plus all of those filters -- and still getting decent PQ.

I mean -- to each his own, of course -- set it how YOU like it. I'm just saying that the vast majority of people here with these sets state that they clearly get better PQ with it turned down from Brilliant (to either Bright or Natural) and with all of those filters turned off.

But, that's after calibrating it some -- maybe do that first and then see what you get. Even if it just means taking someone else's basic calibration settings to start with if you don't want to take the time to do it yourself! If you check TweakTV for their default/suggested settings for this set, you'll find some decent starting values (and they recommend during down the Brilliant and turning off all of the filters).

But, again, whatever YOU like is fine. If it looks good and you love it, so be it!

- John...