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adding a third box - can I?

1093 Views 9 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  BattleZone
I currently have a 722 in the living room and a 622 in the bedroom. The 722 runs a TV in the play room for the kiddo. I am looking to upgrade the old tube tv in the playroom and, in so doing, need to consider how I will get an HD signal to it.

I guess I will need a third box. Is there anyway around this?

If not, can my one dish power three boxes?

also - the TV that will be going in the play room.....I would like to be able to take it outside to watch on the deck when the weather permits. I can't think of an easy way to do this without having the third box (if that is the route I have to go) go portable and move out there. How would that work? Would they (dish installer) just run a line out there that is "hot" allowing me to move the box at will?

I am sure some of you guys have gone through this already. Can you shed any light?
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Ken Green said:
In order to determine what you may need, it would be necessary to know what you already have.
And we would need the specific dish model and type of LNBs, and the model of any switch in the system. Which satellites do you have dishes pointed at?

That being said, if you already have, or added a DPP44 switch, it is capable of running up to 4 622/722's, requiring just one feed from the switch to each receiver.
Ultimately, a DPP44 will probably be needed. They aren't cheap, and neither will be purchasing the additional receiver (you're already at your lease limit with Dish). But a DPP44 would allow for the 3rd and 4th line, so that you could move your 3rd receiver between those two connections as you desire. Running the 4th line where no receiver exists is going to be custom work payable to the installer.
Okay, you have the original Dish 1000 with a DPP Twin and a DP Dual LNB. This is a common combo, but one that doesn't make things quite as easy as we'd like. This dish has been discontinued and replaced with the Dish 1000.2, which would have been better, as your dish only supports 2 receivers, while the 1000.2 supports 3. It is also easier to aim and gets a bit better signal. Swapping out your old dish for a 1000.2 is the cheapest way to upgrade, but you'll only have 3 outputs. That's enough for the 3rd receiver, but not to give you an "always hot" 4th line for moving the receiver when you want.

A DPP44 switch would give you 4 outputs, and you wouldn't need to change dishes. You would need to change how they are connected, though. Right now, your DP Dual (the single LNB) is connected into the DPP Twin (the "double" LNB), because the DPP Twin has a switch inside of it. To use the 44 switch, the switch in the DPP Twin is bypassed, and the DP Dual must be connected directly the 3rd input on the DPP44. The outputs of the DPP Twin get connected to the first two ports. There is an instruction booklet that comes with the switch, and a diagram on the switch itself.

Also, the DPP44 uses a power inserter, which can be added "in-line" behind one of your receivers. This is important: it must be put on the line that goes into the FIRST output on the switch, and the switch is marked to this effect.

DPP44 Switch Installation Guide
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dendox said:
do I just call dish and ask for this stuff?
You could. If you can DIY, you can buy the parts elsewhere and save money. But, if you don't feel confident about doing that, let Dish do it, as they'll have the parts, tools, and experience to do it right.

lets say I get a new 1000.2 and go that route. Can there be the three lines coming out that are hot to run all of the inside TVs with a way to switch the play room line from hot to not and the outdoor line from not to hot? maybe even just unscrewing a line one place and screwing a different one in?
The 3 lines coming from the dish should go into a ground block.




Normally, the ground block is placed near the service entrance, where the power meter and cable feed are. If your extra line is already run to that point, it would simply be a matter of unscrewing one cable and screwing another one on, to "energize" the line with dish signal.

maybe a splitter with a switch on it that allows me to choose which output line is active? does this even exist?
No splitters or manual switches allowed. Remember the receiver not only gets signal from the dish, but also sends DC voltage TO the dish. Thus, when you are switching lines, you should unplug the receiver first and not plug it back in until the lines are reconnected. A short can damage the sat tuner and/or power supply in the receiver, and possibly the LNB too.
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