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Mentor
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi!

I have an HR-24 receiver that I use a 'remote extender' with. I wished there was a jack on the receiver so I don't have to use a blaster with it, which is a little unreliable.

I was wondering if anybody added an IR Jack to the receiver. I believe all you have to do is solder three wires to the IR Sensor in the receiver, and run it out the back. Has anybody done this? Comments? Suggestions? Great Thoughts? :)

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the response. I haven't received a definitive answer yet from other forums I posted to, but I did see some posts where people 'extended' the sensor.

I want to say that my tivo box had one, and I know my receiver has one. I wished DTV would stick one on the back of their receiver.

Thanks!
 

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Broadcast Engineer
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4,153 Posts
wiz561 said:
...I was wondering if anybody added an IR Jack to the receiver. I believe all you have to do is solder three wires to the IR Sensor in the receiver, and run it out the back. Has anybody done this? Comments? Suggestions? Great Thoughts? :)

Thanks!
Before all of the tight-pants bombard you with the "you're voiding your warranty/lease agreement" BS, on the surface this sounds like not such a great idea; it will change the impedance of the circuit, most likely, making the circuit less responsive to IR, possibly making it inoperable. Or it could just damage it permanently. It might work better if you know what value of resistor to place in which new wire to minimize this. Or not; maybe it would work just fine. A little unlikely that it is without risk, compromise, or both.

Does not the HR-24 have RF?

Is Edmund a member of this forum? If anyone has the definitive answer it is him. Should he not respond, post this on remote-central.com.
 

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Godfather
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664 Posts
I've been using IR repeaters for years and they work perfectly every time. I have my 2 HR21-700s and a HR10-250 Tivo in a closet. I run the outputs of these 3 boxes to 3 HDTVs in the house. Each TV has an IR repeater by it so I can send the IR signal to the closet. One thing I noticed several years ago when I set this up was that the IR blasters need to be 12 to 15 inches away from the front of the DVRs to make them reliable. Can you move yours further away and see if that solves your problem?
 

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Mentor
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ah, ok! Maybe I have to move the blasters farther away from the sensor. Right now, they are about 4" to 5" away. I'll have to give that a shot.

Thanks also for the info about HR34. I wonder why d* puts them on some receivers but not others. It's a nice feature to have.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
TomCat said:
Is Edmund a member of this forum? If anyone has the definitive answer it is him. Should he not respond, post this on remote-central.com.
I tried going to remote-central.com, but it's a parked domain. Did you mean remotecentral.com? RC looks like a good resource. I'm having issues, other than with the hr24, so maybe that place can help!

Thanks!!!
 

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Superfly
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4,567 Posts
DirecTV receivers are notorious for having IR overload problems. You might find good luck backing the flasher away as bpratt suggested above. And remotecentral.com is a gold mine for discrete codes and remote users of many brands.

Another solution I've used, although haven't tried it on a current generation DirecTV DVR/reciever, is to bury the flasher inside the box. Popping the case, you put one of the little mouse emitters inside by the IR receiver. Sometime you have to remove the front panel or the PC board behind it. It can get complicated. In some cases, it's impossible. But it looks good and is reliable.
 

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Broadcast Engineer
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Carl Spock said:
DirecTV receivers are notorious for having IR overload problems. You might find good luck backing the flasher away as bpratt suggested above. And remotecentral.com is a gold mine for discrete codes and remote users of many brands.

Another solution I've used, although haven't tried it on a current generation DirecTV DVR/reciever, is to bury the flasher inside the box. Popping the case, you put one of the little mouse emitters inside by the IR receiver. Sometime you have to remove the front panel or the PC board behind it. It can get complicated. In some cases, it's impossible. But it looks good and is reliable.
Yeah, it used to have the hyphen; not sure when it changed. But I have yet to see a question (except to my problem below) that Edmund could not answer. I'd consider him an internet god except he never had the one solution I needed. Go figure.

I tried a repeater but it seemed to control everything in the room except 3 HR's. I tried removing the extra ID codes and a few other tricks, but ended up giving up in disgust. It seemed to be more a question of multipath interference (direct from remote interfering with repeater output) than anything else. Oddly, it was only the HRs that had problems; they seemed to either respond to multipath commands twice (two identical commands coming very close together) or allowed the interfering command to cancel out the desired command. Sucked for me.

I guess I could take your advice and move the sensor and repeater inside a cabinet or inside the case itself, but screw it; life's too short. L5 ruined my iPad remote with a bone-headed update anyway, and RF seems to really work pretty fine.

I owned the first learning remote in 1978 ($100 from General Electric), and fought with every version available for years, then ended up back with a pile of remotes. It's just simpler to pick up the one I want when I want it. All fancy remotes have the same real-estate issue; there is a point of diminishing returns when the increasing number of buttons makes pressing the one you want less-ergonomically possible. Paging, touch screens, all are complicated and require a visual component (I want to press the button without looking at it using tactile response and muscle memory, not hunt for my cheaters to find the mute button and the page its on).

What I am really waiting for is Kinnect-like gesture technology to blossom, which may happen this year.
 
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