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You are on the edge but ok.This topic has been covered elsewhere. Some of the suggestions were: consider Rg11 cable. Run four lines. Consider putting all lines in conduit. I would also test the whole thing, running to the most distant receiver before digging and drilling holes.

You are way beyond the FREE installation area.

Joe
 

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Is there an indoor place to put a signal locker right where the underground line would enter the house? What is the cable run from that point to the dish?

200' with a signal locker should still work so long as you use good coax (solid COPPER core a must). At that distance you're really stretching things so be sure every part is good quality and well done.

Cheers,
Tom
 

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Tom Robertson said:
Is there an indoor place to put a signal locker right where the underground line would enter the house? What is the cable run from that point to the dish?

200' with a signal locker should still work so long as you use good coax (solid COPPER core a must). At that distance you're really stretching things so be sure every part is good quality and well done.

Cheers,
Tom
Hey Tom,

About the signal locker.......looking at a project myself.......questions: their function is to power he dish independently of the receivers(IRDs), correct? Is there a best position for them..can they be at an IRD using the same power source? If yes, will they power the dish and all returns? If near a multiswitch, do they require independent AC power? Are they weather proof or is an enclosure required?

Any help is appreciated.

Joe
 

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The most commonly mentioned products are the sonoradesign HRPID Power inserter, spec sheet: http://www.sonoradesign.com/images/Sheet_HRPID1422_11.pdf

and their signal amplifiers: (from solidsignal's site) http://www.solidsignal.com/manuals/Spec_LA142a_11.pdf

Both can go outdoors and be fed from remote power. The power is supplied thru a standard RG6 connector if you want to remote the power over distance.

Sonora also makes a 4 port amplifier, but I haven't found a spec sheet on it yet.

The power locker and amps are made to be run at either the dish or switch.

Cheers,
Tom
 

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IRD's > WB68 > HRPID1422 > Dish

Note: HRPID1422 requires a WB68
 

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I think I'd try it and see what happens, then spend money if necessary.

I've got about 200 feet total to my furthest receiver and it has worked fine for about 18 months so far.
 

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Is a signal locker still required if you are using a WB616 powered switch?

The reason I ask is I have a slimline with a 616 located at the dish and a bunch of runs from it. One run is about 200' and on that HR20 I get good signal on all sats except for tuner 2 on the 103c that one is all 0's all the time.

All other rec (6 more mostly HR20's and 21's) get good signal on all sats.

Would a signal locker possibly help or is the powered 616 doing the same thing?

Thanks
 

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Did a 275' run this weekend without lockers or anything. Working smooth so far.

The WB616 would indeed help but I would locate it at the house rather then the dish.
 

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Mertzen said:
Did a 275' run this weekend without lockers or anything. Working smooth so far.

The WB616 would indeed help but I would locate it at the house rather then the dish.
The 616 IS at the house.

Dish is on roof.

4 runs of RG6 (35') to switch.

Switch is central to all the feeds in the HOUSE. The 200' run is out to the shop.

But back to the question, does the 616 "replace" the need for a signal locker being a powered switch, or could a signal locker still help?

Thanks
 

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Have you tried putting another one of your boxes there? It would be weird just to have one line fail with all the other ones working. Were those 2 wires to the failing box run at the same time?

A WB616 doesn't replace the locker but it will take over the task of powering the LNB from the IRDs
 

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wavemaster said:
The 616 IS at the house.
But back to the question, does the 616 "replace" the need for a signal locker being a powered switch?
A powered switch IS a signal locker. On an unpowered switch, like the WB68, the first receiver has to power the switch, including the circuits that send continuous power down the 4 lines to the LNB. Two of the four put out around 19v (one with 22KHz tone), and two put out around 14v (one with 22KHz tone). All that power is drawn from the power supply in the receiver. The switch "locks" the switch inside the LNB to a specific set of transponders by using the combo of voltage and presence/lack of tone.

On a powered switch, or with a signal locker together with an unpowered switch, the switch/locker uses its own power supply to send the power to the 4 lines going to the dish. This takes the load off the receivers, and eliminates the voltage drop from the cable runs from the receivers to the switch.

A signal locker is just a powered switch without the switch. To use both together would be needlessly redundant.
 
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