I am wanting to add an additional (nonDVR) receiver to a TV in a back bedroom. I was planning on picking up an H20 and was wondering what the difference was in the model numbers? I see references to H20-100 and H20-600 in various threads?
Difference in H20 Models?
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I forget who manufactures which one but I know that one is MUCH better then the other. Problem is I can't remember which one...LOL. One of them only required one software downgrade and it was just to make the signal meter match the other one. The readings would show up a little lower then they actually were. I want to say it's the 600 but don't qoute me. I'll ask my husband later and respond back. We had an H20 prior to our HR20. It was the glitchy one and was a real pain at the begining. Anywho, I'll get back to you.
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The 100 is made by RCA and the 600 is made by LG. The 100 was the receiver that had less issues and only needed the one software update for the signal meter.
100 RCA
200 Samsung
300 Phillips
400 Hughes
500 Humax
600 LG
700 Pace
Those are the manufacture codes for all DTV receivers.
100 RCA
200 Samsung
300 Phillips
400 Hughes
500 Humax
600 LG
700 Pace
Those are the manufacture codes for all DTV receivers.
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I am soooo glad I caught this post. I just got a -100 yesterday....and I thought I got an older model (-100 vs. -600, a higher number = more up-to-date). Not true. And it's funny how the D* techincal and retention groups do not know that either.LeoGetz said:
Glad now I got the -100, but I have an over-zoom problem (another post).
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There are isssues with the -100 regarding the HDMI compatibility with some makes of television sets (particularly Samsung).
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....bobnielsen said:
add Sharp to that list....
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I have a 600 and it runs a bit hot, but has only reset by itself once in 5 months, which I don't see as a problem. It is on a shelf out in the open with plenty of air flow and I have a fan ready to add if it gets worse (if it gets really bad I'l l try to get a -100). I suspect that having it in a cabinet is a bad idea. I don't know if either the HDMI or overheating problems could be solved with a software fix, but there are some software updates in the works (apparently still being tested and not ready yet).mc115 said:
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Honestly I would just use components and an optical cable and take the better box. The only advantage that HDMI has over that set up ismc115 said:
1. Less cables, less mess
2. HDMI is 7.1 instead of 5.1.
I really don't care about the cables because I know how to hide them and I don't have and don't plan on getting a 7.1 in the future. Some folks find these things advantages so they get the 600 and as Bob was saying they set up fans. They make sure there is a lot of clearance. It's which ever you prefer.
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That's true but here's the thing, Digital only starts to win over Analog at 1080p which isn't even broadcasted because the fps goes above standards. Until they can raise the fps the picture quality between the analog and digital cables will remain the same. Personally I think DVI video and Optical sound is the best way to go. Fiberoptic carries sound much better then metal connections. But everyone has gone crazy for HDMI so they might move away from DVI/Optical. Basically I don't want to be stuck with an 8-track, Beta-Max, or any Laser Disks.Marino13 said:
Unfortunately, I would have to disagree with you. When you send a signal over HDMI/DVI the signal stays in the intended format until the televisions scaler (or in my case the Lumagen Video Processor) takes the signal and converts it to its panels resolution. When you use Component you are relying on each piece of equipment to convert the signal from digital to analog and back to digital again when the signal gets to the television. Then the television will again do its scaling. The problem with this is that there is no standard (at least not one that any manufacturer follows) for component (analog) video signals. A H-20 component video ouptut could look totally different than a HD cable box component video output with the same exact input signal. This is easy to test with a OTA HD signal. Most people probably would not notice the difference if all you are doing is hooking up the H-20 to the TV. But saying that Component is as good as HDMI/DVI is misleading.earthymoon said:
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It's really all of a matter of opionion right now at these low fps. Some swear by HDMI and some feel that at this time component is adequate. I agree with the later and I understand why people hold their opionion of HDMI. All I was trying to state is that HDMI like any other technology will be fairly useless until it's standardized. I know we could go on and on for days about this subject but hey that's the fun of the forums. I'm not convincing you and you're not convincing me but I think we can see where we are both coming from.Marino13 said:
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I had major problems with heat and resetting with the 600. It was replaced with the 100 model which has a faster guide and doesn't reset every 2 minutes. The 600 is made by LG which is Lucky Goldstar....previously known just as Goldstar. Every Goldstar product I've ever purchased since the 70's seems to burn out shortly after the warranty period expires and costs more to fix than buying a new one.mc115 said:
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I just got my first HR20, and it is a 600. Runs really hot, hotter than my HR20. No problems yet connected via component cables to a Panny LCD set in the bedroom.
I'll probably stay with component input in the bedroom since we are viewing a 32-inch set from 12 feet away, any quality difference between HDMI and component (if there is one) would probably not be visible anyway.
I'll probably stay with component input in the bedroom since we are viewing a 32-inch set from 12 feet away, any quality difference between HDMI and component (if there is one) would probably not be visible anyway.
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