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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just confirmed that the Dish installers will be using a Dish 1000+ for my install.

Does anyone know if this dish fits on a normal sized mast? I have a DirecTV oval dish (3 lnb) currently...will the installers be able to use the same mast?

Also, I know that a DPP44 multi switch has to be used. Is this a powered switch? If so (I have no experience with them), how does the installation of that work? Does a run of RG6 go from a power outlet to the switch? Do these run hot?
 

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I just got a Dish 1000+ installed. they were able to reuse the SuperDish Pole to mount the 1000+ with an adapter that the installer had. I have not had any signal issues with this at all. We have had a couple of really windy days since the install and I never lost signal. My Dish is mounted on the top of the roof with nothing really blocking the wind.

The switch is powered through the RG6 cable. a box plugs into the wall and then the RG6 comes from the #1 port on the switch and plugs into the box and then into the Receiver.

where are in Illinois?


James
 

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You may or may not be able to use the same mast. I know the mast for the Dish1000+ was slightly larger than the one I had for my Dish1000 so I swapped it out.

As for the DPP44 switch, yes it is a powered switch. Basically you need to hook up the power inserter in-line with the first receiver port on the switch. This can be inside by the receiver. The switch has always been warm to me, not really 'hot'. I actually have my switch up in my attic close to the Dish and have the power inserter behind my TV in the living room. The switch can go outside as well, I just put it in the attic for looks, I didn't want it attached to my mast or bolted to the side of the house.
 

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The DPP44 has always run on the warm side of the scale.

The Dish1000plus does use a larger OD mast size than the standard Dish500 and standard Dish1000. But as far as D* dish mounts/Triple-Play dish masts, I am not sure what the OD of those mounts are. It may be possible, but I wouldn't recommend it. My neighbor has a D* Triple-Play and my Dish1000plus is significantly larger, so I understand not wanting new holes in your roof, but I wouldn't chance it.

Having said that, I have not yet lost a signal at all using the Dish1000plus. It was a difficult install, but it has proven it's worth to me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Jason Nipp said:
The DPP44 has always run on the warm side of the scale.

The Dish1000plus does use a larger OD mast size than the standard Dish500 and standard Dish1000. But as far as D* dish mounts/Triple-Play dish masts, I am not sure what the OD of those mounts are. It may be possible, but I wouldn't recommend it. My neighbor has a D* Triple-Play and my Dish1000plus is significantly larger, so I understand not wanting new holes in your roof, but I wouldn't chance it.

Having said that, I have not yet lost a signal at all using the Dish1000plus. It was a difficult install, but it has proven it's worth to me.
Thanks for the help. Why do you say that it was a difficult install? Did you do it yourself?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Jason Nipp said:
Yes, actually I did. Twice... If you don't have a meter, I don't recommend attempting this install yourself.
Oh, I'm not doing it myself. I already have 4 runs of RG6 to my D* dish, 2 of which go to my main TV and the other 2 go to my bedroom. I figured it would be an easy install. All the tech has to do it mount the dish, hook it to the RG6 already there, hook up the multiswitch, hook the RG6 to the multiswitch and to the 622 and then hook the TV2 RG6 to the RG6 that already is there.

He might have to use a couple of barrel connectors. Will this cause any signal loss?
 

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7thton said:
He might have to use a couple of barrel connectors. Will this cause any signal loss?
It's pretty common to barrel connections, I can not tell you how reliable this is because I do not know what kind of fittings/etc... where used on the job. I prefer to have as few breaks in my cable runs as possible, but I doubt you'll have any issues. Signal loss at a barrel should be negligible.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Jason Nipp said:
It's pretty common to barrel connections, I can not tell you how reliable this is because I do not know what kind of fittings/etc... where used on the job. I prefer to have as few breaks in my cable runs as possible, but I doubt you'll have any issues. Signal loss at a barrel should be negligible.
Thanks. One more question, if you don't mind. How many runs of RG6 need to come from the Dish 1000+ to the multiswitch?
 

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7thton said:
Thanks! BTW, what do you have that switch mounted to? Does it have to be grounded?
Grounding, well there's a controversial topic right there. Many arguments have occurred over that question. The manual for that switch does recommend properly grounding the switch, I recommend this as well. Will the switch function without being grounded? Yes it will. Frankly, look at how many ground lugs are on the DPP44 switch, then tell me if they were put there to save E* money? :grin:

My switches are mounted to plywood. All my switching gear is in my house. Here is a old picture of my setup. It has changed since the picture. I now have a multichannel UHF modulator in the config, as well as some other new gizmos. I could have put this all in an enclosure, but I am constantly trying new configs/equipment, so a panel board really is the most flexible solution for me.

Good luck....
 

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7thton said:
Does it have to be grounded?
The switch? Not neccessarily. The install, Definately. No matter how it is set up right now, who ever comes out MUST properly ground the system. Make sure that it is done and if they won't do it, tell them to leave and report it to dish. Proper grounding is NOT an OPTION, it's a REQUIREMENT.

National Electrial Code states: All outside wiring MUST be grounded within 2 feet of the entry point of the structure(preferably outside, but not a requirement) to a main ground.

Grounding is a requirement of installation, not optionable.

While a direct strike is very unlikely, a nearby strike can "jump" and hit your wiring and cause the equipment to overlead and catch on fire. Even a properly grounded system can send enough juice in to fry the electronics.
 
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