I use the 15-100. The beauty of these remotes is you can put anything you want on just about any button. Since Page+ and Page- are redundant, I've made those my Green and Red. That makes logical sense to me since those are big jumps in the guide. I've made Uncheck and Check Yellow and Blue. And since the average length of a commercial break is 3 minutes, I've put a macro with 6 skips on swap. I put List on PVR and skip fwd/back on the buttons on either side of it.
For long press functions (in parenthesis below) to work, you need to use these function codes on the transport buttons, instead of the built-in codes:
play (slomo) 00227
fwd (skip fwd to tick) 00171
rew (skip back to tick) 00179
30s slip (jump to end) 00211
skip back (jump to start) 00187
The codes for the colored buttons are:
red 00008
green 00024
yellow 00032
blue 00240
These come in handy for master power on and off macros:
discrete on 00014
discrete off 00006
To assign these codes to buttons, do the following:
As an example, put green on the Page+ button
- Press and hold P to enter setup and arrow down to Key Mover, OK, OK
- From mode SAT
- When prompted for From Key, press P 0 0 0 2 4 (the code for green)
- Press SAT when prompted for Mode
- Then press the key you want to assign the function to, which is Page+ in this case
Pressing P in the steps above tell the remote you're entering an advanced code. Make sure it's just a short press. Repeat the above steps to reassign any buttons you like to any codes (except device selection buttons, left arrow and exit). You can even put macros on just about any key, not just the M1/2/3 keys.
For more detailed instructions, check out the How To link in my signature.
UEI, the maker of the DirecTV OEM remotes also makes the radio shack 15-100, 133, 134 and 135. All those radio shack models (as well as the URC-9910 another poster had mentioned) have the capabilites above, although the 13x series aren't menu driven. My current favorite is actually the 15-133. It's small, cheap, backlit, has colored buttons. The 134 also isn't bad, but it's more expensive and lacks backlighting. All can be programmed from your computer if you want to delve into JP1 programming, which opens up even more possibilities. That's how I program mine. Unfortunately, of the remotes I listed, the 15-100 is not JP1 ready and would require somewhat difficult hardware modifications to make that possible. I've successfully modified mine, but wouldn't recommend it unless you're handy with a soldering iron and have an hour or two to spare.
As for your projector, I don't think there's a buit-in code for it. You'll just have to learn the functions you need. But the protocol is simple, so you should have no problems with the learns. If you do end up going the JP1 route, there IS a code for your projector you can load into the remote.