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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I finally decided to take the HD plunge. I’m picking up a HDTV (42” LCD) tonight after work. Here is my plan and would like to know if this will work.

My current setup is 2 R10’s connected to 27” CRT TV’s. I have signed up with the HD DVR waiting list. When I get it I would like to hook up a multi switch and run both the HR20 via HDMI and the R10 via svideo to the LCD TV. This way I should be able to switch between the two receivers via the TV inputs. Then I can record SD on the R10 and HD on the HR20. This will give me more storage for HD on the HR20 and give me four tuners. It will also give me an instant back up in case I have “issues” with the HR20.

I know I’ll need a 5 LNB dish to get my locals in HD, they are scheduled to be available in HD by the end of the year. I also know I’ll be paying the $4.99 fee to keep the R10 active.

What multi switch will I need to get? Does it make a difference where the switch is, at the dish as opposed to at the receivers? I really don’t want to run more cable to the living room, it is a royal pain.

Let me know if I’m thinking straight or not.
 

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First thing :welcome_s

Second thing. You will need the WB68.

It is an 8 output switch that will get you your locals in HD also.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The WB68 looks like it is a little overkill for what I think I need. Do they make a 2 in 4 out switch that will work with the Ka/Ku satellites? Or better yet is it something D* will supply when they do the install?
 

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Slygrin said:
The WB68 looks like it is a little overkill for what I think I need. Do they make a 2 in 4 out switch that will work with the Ka/Ku satellites? Or better yet is it something D* will supply when they do the install?
You need 4 inputs to the multiswitch (all four of the dish outputs). Directv will supply the WB68, if needed.
 

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Slygrin said:
I finally decided to take the HD plunge. I'm picking up a HDTV (42" LCD) tonight after work. Here is my plan and would like to know if this will work.

My current setup is 2 R10's connected to 27" CRT TV's. I have signed up with the HD DVR waiting list. When I get it I would like to hook up a multi switch and run both the HR20 via HDMI and the R10 via svideo to the LCD TV. This way I should be able to switch between the two receivers via the TV inputs. Then I can record SD on the R10 and HD on the HR20. This will give me more storage for HD on the HR20 and give me four tuners. It will also give me an instant back up in case I have "issues" with the HR20.

I know I'll need a 5 LNB dish to get my locals in HD, they are scheduled to be available in HD by the end of the year. I also know I'll be paying the $4.99 fee to keep the R10 active.

What multi switch will I need to get? Does it make a difference where the switch is, at the dish as opposed to at the receivers? I really don't want to run more cable to the living room, it is a royal pain.

Let me know if I'm thinking straight or not.
Exactly our living room setup, and it works perfectly (especially on the WAF front). Plus, we have an R10 in the bedroom, and an H20 (we have an older Sony HD plasma on the wall there, but no need for the HR20, as one headache is enough). Overall, seven feeds to two rooms. Hard to believe, but with time shifting, it makes sense. And D* gave us the Zinwell 6x8 MS when we had the HR20/Al9 dish installed.
 

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Slygrin said:
The WB68 looks like it is a little overkill for what I think I need. Do they make a 2 in 4 out switch that will work with the Ka/Ku satellites? Or better yet is it something D* will supply when they do the install?
The WB68 is the smallest switch that is KA capable. D* will supply the 5LNB dish and the WB68 switch free with install.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
bobnielsen said:
You need 4 inputs to the multiswitch (all four of the dish outputs). Directv will supply the WB68, if needed.
The way my cable runs now, I have 2 lines going to the bedroom and 2 to the living room. I would like to take the 2 lines in the living room and go into the switch to run 2 lines into the HR20 & 2 lines into the R10. I would like to avoid running more cable since I have to go under the house and up into the wall. After running the current cables when we moved in last summer, I really, really don't want to do it again. I'm getting way too old and fat!
 

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Slygrin said:
The way my cable runs now, I have 2 lines going to the bedroom and 2 to the living room. I would like to take the 2 lines in the living room and go into the switch to run 2 lines into the HR20 & 2 lines into the R10. I would like to avoid running more cable since I have to go under the house and up into the wall. After running the current cables when we moved in last summer, I really, really don't want to do it again. I'm getting way too old and fat!
You have 2 options put only 1 receiver in the room or add 2 more lines. Well I guess there is a 3rd option only use 1 tuner in each receiver.:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
boba said:
You have 2 options put only 1 receiver in the room or add 2 more lines. Well I guess there is a 3rd option only use 1 tuner in each receiver.:)
I know I need 2 lines to each receiver. What I'm hoping will work is to have the multi switch in the living room. Hook up the current 2 lines to the input and output the 4 lines I'll need to the 2 receivers.
 

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Slygrin said:
I know I need 2 lines to each receiver. What I'm hoping will work is to have the multi switch in the living room. Hook up the current 2 lines to the input and output the 4 lines I'll need to the 2 receivers.
That won't work. It takes four lines to the switch to be able to independently select 101 odd/even and 110/119 odd/even (the 99 and 103 get piggybacked on these) on each of the (up to eight) tuners. You need to run all four lines to the multiswitch and go from there.

If you wait until the Frequency Translation Module is available, you won't need to run additional cables, but no date or price has been announced for that.

I know what you mean though--I am also too old and fat to crawl under the house or climb on the roof. I do it because I have to, not because I like it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
bobnielsen said:
That won't work. It takes four lines to the switch to be able to independently select 101 odd/even and 110/119 odd/even (the 99 and 103 get piggybacked on these) on each of the (up to eight) tuners. You need to run all four lines to the multiswitch and go from there.
Bummer! It might be a little bit before I crawl down there again. There is not enough room to get on my hands and knees. I have to belly crawl to get where I need to go. But it looks a lot better having wall outlets then it did the way the prevouse owners had it coming up through the floor in the corner.

The good news is I'm watching my new 42" LCD as I'm typing this. I can't wait for HD!
 

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Slygrin said:
Bummer! It might be a little bit before I crawl down there again. There is not enough room to get on my hands and knees. I have to belly crawl to get where I need to go. But it looks a lot better having wall outlets then it did the way the prevouse owners had it coming up through the floor in the corner.

The good news is I'm watching my new 42" LCD as I'm typing this. I can't wait for HD!
That is what the installer is for ;)

This stuff is free don't question just order and enjoy :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Blitz68 said:
That is what the installer is for ;)

This stuff is free don't question just order and enjoy :D
Unfortunately I really doubt that they will run the cable like I want in the standard install. I have to drill up from under the floor into the wall. While it wasn't that difficult, I would much rather do it myself. Now if it would just warm up some I might be more inclined to go crawling around down there.
 

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Slygrin said:
Unfortunately I really doubt that they will run the cable like I want in the standard install. I have to drill up from under the floor into the wall. While it wasn't that difficult, I would much rather do it myself. Now if it would just warm up some I might be more inclined to go crawling around down there.
What I did was make a cutout in the drywall to fit a plastic outlet box (the kind where you turn the screw and it clamps itself to the back of the drywall) and use a long (1 ft.) drill bit to drill down through the floor via the cutout. I then inserted one end of a 1 ft. length of coax through the hole, ran the other end into the outlet box and installed the box into the cutout. I terminated the coax from below (fortunately there is enough room to get on my hands and knees in most of my crawl space). I'll admit I'm getting too old (68 next month) for this stuff!
 
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