boatlover said:I have a question about splitters.
I am going to be upgrading my system to SWM, whole home w/cck. My family room is pre wired (rg6) with 4 outlets around the room to make furniture arrangement easy.
These outlets are Daisy chained together using 1 output of the splitter to feed the wall plate and the other output to the next splitter/wall plates. The spacing between outlets is about 8 ft. Only 1 receiver will be used in this room. This has worked well with my old Dtivo as the wife can move the furniture and there are not cables all over the place.
If I use the green label splitters will this continue to work with a SWM setup?
Looks like I'm not "in my right mind".veryoldschool said:Nobody in the right mind would wire them this way.
In the simplest terms, a 2-way divides the power by 2, so:
first wall plate has 50%
second has 25%
third has only 12.5%
"and so on", reducing the signal by half each time.
As wallfishman has said, remove all the splitters and use barrel connectors to join the coax so you have only one wall plate connected.
The third and fourth wallplate each get one-eighth of the signal (12.5% splitter share, minus coax loss), just as receivers connected to an 8-way splitter get one eighth shares.
Not everyone is willing or able to run new wires in an apartment with finished walls. If the total coax length from the dish to the last wallplate is under 200 feet, this should work.
I just stumbled on this thread while searching for technical info on green splitter loss characteristics. Yesterday, I attended a seminar on installing the DRE2 system in hotels, and was was hoping to find something regarding the technical "wizardry" that gets green 4-way splitters output port isolation values of typically 14dB, versus the more typical -25dB published isolation value of common cable TV splitters.
Has anyone found a schematic for the internal construction of green labeled splitters? I am wondering if they diplex internally before splitting, and if the L-band isolation values are more normal.