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kay said:
Nope, PVC! :( Here are pics, these are on opposite ends of the house, which is around 50 feet long from one side to the other:

The dish wasn't close to secure with a single pole, and I couldn't put it any lower to help stabilize since it wouldn't clear the neighbors roof. With the legs cemented in the thing is rock solid! The traveling wire (can't remebmer the name) on one of the sets of RG6 grounds the dish to the grounding block right now. The old dish was about 7 feet above this and a few feet over, grounded improperly (to a lone grounding rod that I added since the installer grounded it to a PVC water faucet)


This (from what I can tell) is the main ground for the house. This is where I would ground it to if I can find a proper method to do so. About 10 feet up, around 50ish feet through the attic, and 8 feet back down to meet the grounding block from there. The pipe on the right goes immediately to the electric meter (which meets with the box on the inside of the living room - was originally the garage) and the wires to the left appear to be cable, phone, and something else (not sure what)
If i was you i would run the rg-6 and use that same gr blk @ the meter/service ground on the other side of the hm. = Rg-6 through the attic IS allot easier than all this driveway boring and Work. PLUS the cost of rg-6 and 6 " of green #10 is a heck of a lot cheaper than all the cpr wire/work. (= My #10 sun/oil resist gr wire went from $50 to over 100$ per 500 ft. Copper is UP!)

ALSO think about this.... > a strike happens near by.... your ground wire is 100ft long... Your shortest cble run is 25 ft....

hmmmmm. Least path of resistance or shortest path?:confused:
 

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BE aware Using the H20 pipes has specifics as well concerning NEC legality and "worthy-ness".

= Cold wtr pipe w/bonding (gr wire) to occur within 5 ft of entrance to structure.

glad you found "a savior" !... You were making me sweat thinking about what all you were going to do.
 

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kay said:
Yeah it's cool i'm going to ground it right to the fauce pipe which is within just an inch or so of the entrance to the house.
Let Mike quote the code to ya.
BUT.. just so you understand/know
...that 5 ft applies to the SERVICE ENTRANCE of the Wtr line into the structure AND the water line has to have direct contact with the earth for 10 ft prior to its entrance according to the code.(which im sure it(10 ft of earth contact) does and that 10 ft of gr contact really is not an issue in most circumstances on a res install)
(So that means within 5 ft of where the wtr main enters your home, (which refers to where the wtr main Actually leaves the earth if your pipe comes from the ground) and doesnt ness. mean the wall of your home.

=wtr main (from meter) entrance point & not to excede 5 ft in distance within the structure before its grounded.
 

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Mike500 said:
You must verify that the copper piping is a complete conductor path and grounded to the main electrical panel. Water heaters, appliances such as filters and water softeners or any sections of plastic pipe must have #6 or better jumpers to complete continuity. The panel, itself, must be grounded to an 8 foot buried grounding rod. Since NEC 1996, just grounding to a water pipe is not sufficient.

Additionally, you'd be surprised on how many plumbing systems do not have the required 20 feet of buried pipe for a decent ground. Most outside water lines are plastic; pvc or polyethylene.

A lot of PEX. CPVC, or older polybutylene plumbing systems are installed in walls, in attics or under floors, with only the visible stubs and other sections being copper. This is happening more than ever, since copper has tripled or more in cost over the past three years.

Homeowners are led to believe that they have copper plumbing systems, when, in fact, they don't.
.. Mike500 ?... are you Holt? > that above sounds EXACTLY like a quote or paste from Mike Holt or either Todd of Dbs install... hmmm
 

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Mike500 said:
Nope............It's just the technical language that is similar. I'm a Master Electrician and have written and interpreted a lot of codes for government regulatory agencies.

I am retired and was once a senior legal analyst and technical writer for a Federal regulatory agency involved in code enforcement.
He he... But you know of Holt huh?... I knew there was a "tight tie" to the code application some how (sounded to much like Holt > Wink) not to have "walked it" AND applied it, not only with hands BUT also paper. = Too obvious to hide.

I bet you'd love to come w/ me one week and LOOK @ this mess the APPROVED D* home service providers pull out here as far as grounding.
I see dishes grounded to the GAS lines even AND the all too common gr to a brass wtr faucet w/ a pvc input pipe. Then i see where pressure reducing valves and stations ect where the pipe unions have rubber washers in between the "faces" of the union (= there went that ground!) w/ no "jumper" (#6) to continue "the path". Hey but what do you expect when QUANITY is Foremost & QUALITY Has Never been uttered and the lack of proper training is dictated with a overwelming display of THE PAY.

= "You get what you Pay for" and who is the underlying "suffer-er"... hmmmm that would be the patron and actual "payee".. now wouldnt it? IE > "the customer".

Sad huh?
 
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