[Guest]

Hoping the installation mavens here can help this clueless newbie with an installation question.

I'm installing a Dish 500 with 2 DishPro single LNBs. While aiming the dish, I connected the LNBs to the Y-bracket and the Y-bracket to the arm using friction only. All was well. When it was time to connect everything in final form, I could not get the Y-bracket connected to the Dish 500 arm. I inserted the supplied screw from the bottom of the Y-bracket and connected it to the supplied bolt on top of the Y-bracket. But even with everything nice and tight, there is *LOTS* of play where the Y-bracket connects to the Dish 500 arm. So much play that I'm worried that the LNBs will flop around in a brisk wind. Even worse, I've fiddled with it so much now that the indentation in the plastic for the bolt on the top of the Y-bracket is stripped.

What am I doing wrong?

If it's not me, is there a homebrew method to connect the Y-bracket to the arm on a Dishb 500 so that it doesn't move around?

Paul Michael Brown
Washington, D.C.

 

[TNGTony]

Paul sent me an e-mail and I suggested he post the question here. I have no idea since I never installed any of my own dishes. I figure one of you do-it-yourselfers, dealers or installers might have some info to help him out.

See ya
Tony

 

[Jacob S]

Maybe if you tightened up the bolt some it would help it fit more snug and prevent it from having so much 'play' in it. It will still have some play which will not affect the signal strength that much, unless it has a great deal of play with it.

 

[DishDude1]

It's normal to have quite a bit of play between the arm and the Y adapter. You only need to "snug" the screws. Some seem to fit better than others, it seems E* has to different suppliers of dishes. Some of the arms have a shiny, smooth painted design (these fit better) Others have a rougher, dull texture to the paint and these have more play. I have not noticed any difference in signal quality or long term durability in either dish style.

BTW, I have installed 2-3 dish 500's 5-6 days a week since it came out in late 99.

 

[Guest]

Just wanted to let everybody know the end of the story. As it happened, no matter how much I tinkered with the connection between the Y bracket and the arm it was all wobbly. Moreover, I'm using Belden 7731A RG-11 cable with Snap N Seal SNS11AS connectors. (My cable run is nearly 200 feet and I'm using the DishPro 34 switch.) That's a very thick cable and a rather large connector and there's just not enough room inside the Y bracket. Grrr.

Decided to scrap the Dish 500 and go with a setup featuring three Dish 300s, each fitted with a single DishPro LNB. There is plenty of room inside the arm for the cable and the connector. Plus the LNB attaches directly to the arm using a very positive-fitting screw. Sure, it's probably overkill. But I was able to tweak each dish just so, using an Acutrac signal strength meter. (Great gadget, by the way. Responds instantly to even the tiniest tweak in azimuth or elevation.) Signal is 100+ on all three satellites here in Washington, DC.

One final technical note. When I connected the DishPro 34 switch to a Model 600 (using the DishPro adapter) and ran the check switch routine, I got a strange result. The 6000 thought I was using a SW64 and it showed six LNBs. Functionality was fine, but I called a tech rep who advised that the Model 600 software was written before the DishPro switches and LNBs were introduced. Therefore, the 6000 displays the closest configuration that it knows.

 

[Bill D]

I know the problem is solved but...
My 2 dual LNBF's also wobble a little, I haven't had any direct problems as a result. I also found out that thick RG-6 quad shield cable is very difficult to put though the arm. The same cable is also very tough to work with when using a SW 64 with a large enclosure box. But everything does work..

 

[Mike500]

The more the throughbolt is tightened; the more the sheet steel arm is deformed. Take a large box wrench and widen the space between the holes of the sheet metal arm. Then, attach the plastic "Y" bracket but do not tighten the bolt and nut too tight. If you must tighten the bolt and nut really tight, go to the hardware store and get a 1/8" inner diameter nylon spacer 3/4" long. Put the bolt through hole of the lower "Y" bracket half, through the metal arm's lower hole (threading it through the nylon specer), then through the upper hole of the metal arm, and through the upper half of the plastic "y" bracket before putting the nut on the bolt. This way, there is internal support to prevent the upper and lower halves of the thin sheet metal from deforming under the pressure of the bolt. Tighten securely and the jount will not move up and down.

 

[Jacob S]

I have noticed where the plastic does tend to go inwards towards the screw in the center if you overtighten so I try not to overtighten mine. A little wobble has no difference in signal quality.