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Help with basic dish splitter

1925 Views 14 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  carl6
im having trouble with a setup at a target store they originally had 2 receivers and wanted to add more. i installed a 6x8 with the 2 feeds going into the first two ports of the 6x8 but they keep saying it goes out so im wondering if i can use a high fequency 4 way splitter since its only the 101 signal they have. any help would be appreciated
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The 6x8 is only good for a HD setup. Check the link below and match your dish type and then you'll see compatible switches. You CANNOT use any type of splitters with non SWM setups.

http://www.solidsignal.com/p/?p=2709&d=directv-dish-antenna-types&mc=02
jdogi70 said:
im having trouble with a setup at a target store they originally had 2 receivers and wanted to add more. i installed a 6x8 with the 2 feeds going into the first two ports of the 6x8 but they keep saying it goes out so im wondering if i can use a high fequency 4 way splitter since its only the 101 signal they have. any help would be appreciated
By "splitter" I assume you mean a "multi-switch," and by "6x8" I assume the multi-switch you are referring to is a Zinwell WB68.

First make sure the two coax feeds from the "round" 101 dish are connected to the 13v and 18v inputs labeled "Sat 99/101."

When they say it "goes out" is that on just one receiver or more? If so it may be a bad cable and therefore try switching cables with one to a working receiver at the output of the multi-switch to see if the problem moves to that receiver.

If it moves then its a bad cable, if not the multi-switch or that specific port on it may be bad and try another port before changing it out altogether.

And yes you can use a 2 or 3x4 multi-switch instead, but may wish to keep the 6x8 for any possible future expansion.

Report back on your progress.
Alebob911 said:
The 6x8 is only good for a HD setup. ...
No that's not true, the WB68 is Ka "and/or" Ku capable, and may work in Ku SD only installs.

In fact its the only multi-switch DIRECTV techs. regularly use nowadays for SD installs requiring 3-8 receiver outputs.
A 6x8 works with any setup other than SWM.

A commercial account should have an 18x20 or SL5. That would require four lines from the dish to the 6x8.

No spliters dawg.
Cool. Thanks for the info. I think I might have been thrown off because he only has 2 lines vs 4. Would he not need 4 to benefit from the WB68? I always say you learn everyday! :)
Alebob911 said:
... Would he not need 4 to benefit from the WB68?
If its an SD only install the other two lines ("Sat B&C") would allow reception from the 110 (unused at present) and 119 Ku band satellites if there is a Phase III 18" x 20" triple sat. oval dish installed.

The benefit of the WB68 is that it has a wide-band (thus the "WB") response beyond the standard Ku 950-1450 MHz (L-band) to accommodate the additional 250-750 MHz (Ka-lo or "B" band) and 1650-2150 MHz (Ka-hi or "A" band) LNB frequency blocks for HD programming if need be.
Alebob911 said:
The 6x8 is only good for a HD setup.
the WB 6x8 is currently the only switch that works with any conventional or "legacy" system to support more than 4 tuners. Thus this switch works with any conventional dish not just the slimline.
right but how is it that i can use 4 2way high frequency splitters to cascade 2 6x8 switches from the kaku but i cant use 1 4 way high freq splitter to split only one signal and the other setup splits 5 signals
jdogi70 said:
right but how is it that i can use 4 2way high frequency splitters to cascade 2 6x8 switches from the kaku but i cant use 1 4 way high freq splitter to split only one signal and the other setup splits 5 signals
The difference is where the splitter is in relationship to the switch.
Before the switch means all the channels on the coax are there to be split.
After the switch, since it's switching, only the channels that the switch has selected are there [from the four coax inputs].
Since the receiver is sending a voltage & tone for the channel it wants, should you add a second receiver to this line, it may send a different voltage & tone. This can cause both receivers to not get the channels they need.
right. because the switch polarity locks each input of the switch. so if you use a splitter with out a switch, then the LNB does the switching and having two receivers sending different commands to the LNB through one cable will cause the receivers not to get what they asked for.
peds48 said:
right. because the switch polarity locks each input of the switch. so if you use a splitter with out a switch, then the LNB does the switching and having two receivers sending different commands to the LNB through one cable will cause the receivers not to get what they asked for.
To put a "what if" here:
Receiver #1 is sending out a 18 volt no tone for the channel it wants [from the even TPs off of 101 & 99].
Receiver #2 is sending out 13 volts with a tone for the channel it wants [from the odd tps off of the 103].
These two combine for 18 volts and a tone, which has the channels off of the even tps from the 103, which neither receiver was asking for.
veryoldschool said:
To put a "what if" here:
Receiver #1 is sending out a 18 volt no tone for the channel it wants [from the even TPs off of 101 & 99].
Receiver #2 is sending out 13 volts with a tone for the channel it wants [from the odd tps off of the 103].
These two combine for 18 volts and a tone, which has the channels off of the even tps from the 103, which neither receiver was asking for.
wow ok now i get it completely thanks guys that helped alot i thought of taking out the 6x8 and just using the high frequency 4wy s[lotter since its only using the 101 its a basic dish 18' but now i know i need either a 2x4 or another 6x8 to check and see if the switch is bad. thanks everyone i really appreciate all the input.
For a more in-depth discussion of various DirecTV dishes, multiswitches, and stack plans, see http://hr20.dbstalk.com/docs/Dish, Multiswitch and Cable FAQ.pdf
The information on pages 4, 5 and 6 covers the above in depth.
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