For the 5LNB or the Slimline3 dish the pole needs to be 100% plumb, but your pole is going need to be replaced anyway. The new dishes need a 2" pole and the old dishes only used 1 5/8".
How plumb does the pole need to be?
I have an existing round dish pointed at 101 mounted on a pole that's more-or-less plumb.
That is, it's not plumb totally, but it's not all that far off either.
I'm looking to get HD, hopefully one of those 3 LNB ovals as I can't see 119 at all - how would an installer fare with a fairly plumb but not totally plumb pole?
(That sounds a bit too close to "how much wood can a woodchuck chuck...")
Thanks - I'll be posting some other install questions under a different thread but I wanted this to have a clear title...
That is, it's not plumb totally, but it's not all that far off either.
I'm looking to get HD, hopefully one of those 3 LNB ovals as I can't see 119 at all - how would an installer fare with a fairly plumb but not totally plumb pole?
(That sounds a bit too close to "how much wood can a woodchuck chuck...")
Thanks - I'll be posting some other install questions under a different thread but I wanted this to have a clear title...
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Just FYI, I (and a buddy) did the install the first time.
If I need 2", it might not be that hard for me to do that upgrade - and make it plumb.
If I need 2", it might not be that hard for me to do that upgrade - and make it plumb.
It doesn't have to be 100%, but the better it is the easier it is to get proper signal. I've done installs where the mast is at a 45 degree angle.
Mertzen, congrats on your 1,000th post! :goodjob:
As said above, there ain't no sorta plumb.smithrh said:Just FYI, I (and a buddy) did the install the first time.
If I need 2", it might not be that hard for me to do that upgrade - and make it plumb.
You could let D* worry about installing a new 2" pole, but right this minute they will probably balk at installing a 5 LNB dish without LOS to 119. Wait a month or two and the new 3 LNB HD dish for 99/101/103 will be available, and the installers can safely ignore the 119 sat issue.
Bubble in the circle equals plumb.
Torpedo level: bubble in between the lines equals plumb.
Don't settle for anything less.
Torpedo level: bubble in between the lines equals plumb.
Don't settle for anything less.
Smile when you say that, partner.Mertzen said:I've done installs where the mast is at a 45 degree angle.
:lol: It was a worldirect dish too. Took me near 90 mins to make it happen. Wish I had taken pic :lol:2dogz said:Smile when you say that, partner.
:hurah:Nick said:Mertzen, congrats on your 1,000th post!
The ONLY benefit of the mast being plumb is making it easier to initially "find" the 101 satellite using the recommended azimuth and elevation settings given by Directv or dishpointer.com. As Mertzen says, it's really not that big a deal whether the mast is plumb, or not. You're aiming at a "point in space"...the 101 satellite, then rotating your tilt to make your "Line in space" pass through the 119 satellite. The satellites don't really care what coordinate system you use.
Remember though that any new dish 5LNB or 3LNB ka/ku needs a new mast.
Wrap tape around the pole....pull on the thing with your truck. When you have rock on 803 you are there. Don't move the planet.
Joe
Joe
You gotta love a proactive installer. Does it his way. With a truck.joe diamond said:Wrap tape around the pole....pull on the thing with your truck. When you have rock on 803 you are there. Don't move the planet.
Joe
Can I safely remove the bubble level from the top of the mast once the install is done? How hard is it to remove? I'd like to route the RG6 cables through the mast just for appearance and I don't think there's anything else int he way that would block them. Any reason not to do this?
It doesn't really need to be that plumb.
If you're putting in a new one, make it plumb, it doesn't take that long. But if you are using an existing pole that isn't plumb, it won't present a huge issue, it'll just take more fine adjustments to get it working.
And yeah, you can and should remove the bubble level.
If you're putting in a new one, make it plumb, it doesn't take that long. But if you are using an existing pole that isn't plumb, it won't present a huge issue, it'll just take more fine adjustments to get it working.
And yeah, you can and should remove the bubble level.
If you mean routing them through the arm that holds the LNB horns, yes, no problem, that how it is suppose to work. Then you tie wrap then nice and neat down the side of the mast. Leave some working slack in case you need to change out the LNB assembly in the future.kornbln said:Can I safely remove the bubble level from the top of the mast once the install is done? How hard is it to remove? I'd like to route the RG6 cables through the mast just for appearance and I don't think there's anything else int he way that would block them. Any reason not to do this?
No, not the arm. I know they are supposed to be routed through the arm.. but rather than tie wrap them around the mast I want to run them THROUGH the mast.2dogz said:If you mean routing them through the arm that holds the LNB horns, yes, no problem, that how it is suppose to work. Then you tie wrap then nice and neat down the side of the mast. Leave some working slack in case you need to change out the LNB assembly in the future.
The KA/KU mast has specially designed adjusters inside the base end for plumbing corrections. Wasps have a tough time getting in and out, the cable can't be run that way.
I think that's how my installer was able to use a mast that was too small, by wrapping tape around it first.joe diamond said:Wrap tape around the pole....pull on the thing with your truck. When you have rock on 803 you are there. Don't move the planet.
Joe
No matter how tight I make the bolts, I am able to grab the dish and rotate it horizontally. So far, it hasn't caused me any problems.
Nice points about the mast not having to be absolutely plumb. I guess as long as the dish is adjustable in three dimensions (as these are) it should always be possible to get the signal.
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