The laptop coolpads with dual fans seem to be just about dead quiet. I'm using one and can't hear a thing unless I got right next to it with my ear. It took the temp down from 127 to 105 +/- 2 degrees.paulman182 said:Mine has an exhaust fan on top and has had few issues except for locking up three times. The fan has brought the temp down from 126 to 109.
It's pretty loud, though. I'm thinking seriously of trying it again without the fan.
131 is the upper limit of the operating range of a hard drive. If the ambient is that high, I would think that the top plate of the hard drive (where the temperature is measured) is hotter than the 55C limit.PoitNarf said:Constant 131 since day 1. :eek2:
127F is a little under 53C. Hard drive life drops quickly above 131F. With modern CPUs, the allowable temperature highs run from 141F to 212F ("mobile" processors are designed to take more heat because their cooling systems are poor).thekochs said:Well, great feedback. 127F is about 58Celcius.
Earl, what is the upper limit for temp that that D* is telling you ? Also, is this reading on INFO/TEST the ambient in the box or what ?Earl Bonovich said:127 is the normal operating temperature for the unit.
I agree with you on the HDD 55C limit...some of the Maxtor CE drives spec 60C though. However, I'm guessing the CPU is not measured but maybe the HDD. The CPU is not running that many MIPS in these boxes.....maybe 300-500 or so but the HDD is the biggest point of failure so my bet is the temp is the HDD. That said, sure is pushing the limit at 131F. Also, when I playback recording the temp rises, live TV it drops to 125F.harsh said:131 is the upper limit of the operating range of a hard drive. If the ambient is that high, I would think that the top plate of the hard drive (where the temperature is measured) is hotter than the 55C limit.
I'm inclined to think that the temperature is actually the CPU temperature.
Now we know that the thermometer goes above 129!
Thank you for your suggestions, but there are a few problems.runopenloop said:Looking at you pics, here are some suggestions:
1. Put in some shelves to separate the equipment a little bit. With everything so close it would be hard for air to move around the equipment and conduct heat away.
2. Put in some kind of fan to move the air. It could just circulate like a convection oven... that would at least pull the heat away from the components, but you'd only get it all down to some steady state value that is probably higher than you'd like.
3. Vent the air out of the cabinet. It looks like the doors need to stay as is, but what about venting through the bottom of the cabinet floor and then out the kick plate below the doors? You could get a quiet fan to push or pull air in one side on the front and then out the other side in the back. You should be able to get something acceptable looking in the kickplate area.
4. Look at the laptop coolpads, etc. as discussed in other threads, but I'd combine that with #3. You need to get the heat out of that box.
I think getting flow from outside the cabinet is probably the best bet. I have a setup that is kind of similar. I have cabinets above a fireplace mantel. There are double doors. The TV area bumps outside the wall of the house so the cabinet doors are flush with the wall. The TV is on the bottom and the components are on a shelf on top.Jomanscool2 said:three, I thought off this too, seemeed very acceptable, as it would have the fans further back behind the front of the cabinet (I would assume it would dampen the noise), it would look great having only like basically what appears as a heating vent, and it would also draw out alot of the warm air. But first off, that would probably be the most expensive of the options avaiable to us. and two, wouldn't we be FORCED to get some sort of a racmounting system or something to keep it off of the ground so that it isn't sitting on a vent?
I have one of the smarthome racks, at 7 feet tall. Love it. Everything is completely open, slotted shelves, very good air flow (and I still use a fan).Jomanscool2 said:The legs on the reciever are less than a centimeter tall, unfortunately, but I have seriously been thinking of some rackmounting system, or at least something that has cable management. the first site I found had some decent looking rack mounts, and something I thought was decent looking.
it seems very simlar to what you were talking about, but it might be slightly overkill, and might also kill the idea of the vent in the floor, unless we have it to the side.
just an fyi, dimensions of the cabinet are about 29 inches height, and 22 inches depth
so obviously, this solution wouldn't quiet fit, but something like that. Also, if i found a system like that about 24 inches tall or so, I could still pop a laptop cooler on.
Gosh, I wish we had just made a television closet like at my cabin =(. its amazing how just making a 3x3 closet can make these things so amazingly easier...
Found a vendor of a 23" tall unit, http://cableorganizer.com/home-theater-system/SRSR-rotating-sliding-rail-system.htm#PRICE
One downside of this of course is the $600 price tag.
Maybe the nice and cheap $200 for just a basic rotating rackunit would be better...
Good point !!!!! Scratch that request D*. Guess Standby isn't a power state like in a laptop...huh ?paulman182 said:"So, switches based on a thermometer. I've never tried but with these starting up at 70F I'm not sure how well they would work. Personally, I'd like to see D* turn off the USB port power on standby mode....this would be nice turn the USB powered coolpad off.....hope they are listening."
Thanks for the informative post...but I hope they are NOT listening.
I'm not using a USB fan--mine is a lot bigger, sucking air out the top--but the HR20 runs the hard drive, and generates heat, even in standby.
If someone were using a coolpad on top of the HR20, it had better stay on at all times, or it'll trap that a lot of that heat in the HR20.
Check the temp of your HR20 when you come out of standby and you'll probably find it is as warm as when it has been on for a while. If the fan is needed at all, it is needed anytime the HR20 is plugged in.
They do......it's a part of the SMART functionanlity in a drive. There is a device called a Thermistor that measues temp and thru the SMART interface (which monitors much more than temp...example bad writes/reads, etc.) tells the system there is a threshold violation. It's up to the firmware/system to decide what to do at that point. CPUS like Intel Px, AMD, etc. have these on-board and they cycle back clock rate and/or shutdown.harsh said:I too am guessing HDD because most modern drives have built-in thermometers and, as you said, it is the critical path.