[HDPowerUser]

I finally found the solution to my issue where the VIP 722 keeps resetting over and over, sometimes three times per day. It was simply overheating. All you have to do to fix it, is to put a notebook cooler under it -- I recommend the Zalman ZM-NC1000 (I have no association with them), since it has a metal cooling plate instead of plastic. Once I put this on (and you can plug it in and power it directly from the VIP's own USB port -- I use the rear one), it has not reset in a month. I had put some drink coasters under the unit at first, to give it more air room, but that didn't help. But once I put this very quiet cooler on it, there have been no more problems. I highly recommend this solution to any VIP 722 users who might be experiencing intermittent resets. Note that the cooler does stay on all the time, since the DVR is really "on" when its "off", but you cannot hear it running. Also, there is a USB expander port on the cooler, so you are not really loosing a USB port. Now the unit is very solid, and can really recommend this unit over any Direct TV unit, such the HR20. The VIP 722 is the best DVR out there now in my opinion.

 

[PWall]

Thanks for the tip!

 

[Jim5506]

Since the motherboard is nearly solid across the center of the whole unit, I find it more effective to pull warm air out the left side of the unit with a small low noise home theater fan.

The laptop cooler will help some, but they are not designed to operate 24/7 and will croak after a couple of months hard use.

My fan has been going 24/7 for over 2 years with only being shut off to clean the dust off ot evert couple of monthe or so.

 

[bear paws]

Since the motherboard is nearly solid across the center of the whole unit, I find it more effective to pull warm air out the left side of the unit with a small low noise home theater fan. The laptop cooler will help some, but they are not designed to operate 24/7 and will croak after a couple of months hard use. My fan has been going 24/7 for over 2 years with only being shut off to clean the dust off ot evert couple of monthe or so.

I went through the reboot saga too on a 622. No indication it was running hot nor did Dish CRS think that either. I had suggested that to them. They just kept repacing it and not charging me after I whined about losing my recordings.:lol:

Same thing. 6 mo. ago I used a small 120v fan from something I took apart, on the left side... Maybe a computer. Plugged it into the the "switched" outlet on my AVR since it goes on any time I use the DVR. Haven't had "that" problem since.

 

[Cap'n Preshoot]

Since the motherboard is nearly solid across the center of the whole unit, I find it more effective to pull warm air out the left side of the unit with a small low noise home theater fan.

The laptop cooler will help some, but they are not designed to operate 24/7 and will croak after a couple of months hard use.

My fan has been going 24/7 for over 2 years with only being shut off to clean the dust off ot evert couple of monthe or so.

I vote for this solution as well. The laptop cooler is BTN (better than nothing), but making the case "feel" cool does little for exhausting away the internal heat that's causing the problem and thereby cooling down the actual component(s). With the D* rcvrs there was actually a place inside that was designed to have a fan. (and the mod was easily un-done)

Has anyone actually opened up a 722 or 622 to have a look inside? Perhaps it's time.

The CSR will never admit that heat is the problem because such a statement would imply faulty design.

 

[Nick]

I have had no problems with my 722.

 

[boylehome]

Since the motherboard is nearly solid across the center of the whole unit, I find it more effective to pull warm air out the left side of the unit with a small low noise home theater fan...

I agree 100% All the heat is generated above the motherboard. I didn't see much difference with a cooling pad but did see a big difference with a side fan helping move the flow of air.

 

[smackman]

Since the motherboard is nearly solid across the center of the whole unit, I find it more effective to pull warm air out the left side of the unit with a small low noise home theater fan.

The laptop cooler will help some, but they are not designed to operate 24/7 and will croak after a couple of months hard use.

My fan has been going 24/7 for over 2 years with only being shut off to clean the dust off ot evert couple of monthe or so.

How is this fan mounted? Is it external or did you mount it internally?

 

[Jim5506]

External.

Mine is about 3/4 inch from the side of the unit. Any closer and the noise level goes up precipitously.

There are kits that have two small fans on a plastic/foam bracket that mount to the side.

 

[EXTACAMO]

Yep, I used a computer case fan that I rigged to work off of the USB port of the 622. I fabbed a bracket and mounted to the rear on the left rear side of my box. Not using any screws as I have a leased box. The hard drive temp dropped from 121 deg. to 113. Just take a USB cable you can spare and cut a connector off one end and strip it back to expose the conductors. Then use the red and black wires, they are power. connect them to a suitable fan and your good to go. But I don't think it really matters how you do it as long as its on the left side rear of the box.

 

[mzta9]

Thanks, this sounds like a great idea. Does it matter if the fan blows toward or away from the DVR?

 

[EXTACAMO]

Thanks, this sounds like a great idea. Does it matter if the fan blows toward or away from the DVR?

I have mine positioned so it draws the heat out.

 

[EXTACAMO]

Also, keep in mind that if you go the home made USB route that the max current spec. for USB is 500ma I think. So don't try to use some big honkin fan because there won't be enough juice to turn it.

 

[Nick]

Also, keep in mind that if you go the home made USB route that the max current spec. for USB is 500ma I think. So don't try to use some big honkin fan because there won't be enough juice to turn it.

It doesn't make sense to use a USB port as a power source for a cooling fan.
A 500 milliamp (0.5 amp) current draw needed to run a fan will generate even
more heat internally. USB was never intended to power mechanical devices.

 

[EXTACAMO]

It doesn't make sense to use a USB port as a power source for a cooling fan.
A 500 milliamp (0.5 amp) current draw needed to run a fan will generate even
more heat internally. USB was never intended to power mechanical devices.

Well then why do they make chill mats and other types of personal fans for USB?