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So our 3+ year HR20-700 is going to be replaced by DTV in the next couple of days. I have not been following the forum lately what model DVR for HD is the most current or one that I should be sure to not accept.
Anyone know where I can access the program code for the remote to DVR to be IR to pass signals through objects?
Thanks
 

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Geek til I die
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They are shipping any and all of them. If you told them you used the OTA tuner of the HR20-700, you will probably get a refurb HR20. New ones are currently HR22 and HR23 I believe.

TO access "through the walls" you need to put your remote in RF mode, via the REMOTE SETUP screen on the DVR.
 

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AV8TOR said:
So our 3+ year HR20-700 is going to be replaced by DTV in the next couple of days. I have not been following the forum lately what model DVR for HD is the most current or one that I should be sure to not accept.
Anyone know where I can access the program code for the remote to DVR to be IR to pass signals through objects?
Thanks
The most current model HD DVRs are the HR22 and HR23. They both have a 100 hour HD recording capacity. The HR20 and HR21 models have a recording capacity of about half that. Besides the noted recording capacity differences (and built in OTA in the HR20s), the DVRs are otherwise essentially functionally equivalent.
 

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Davenlr said:
...If you told them you used the OTA tuner of the HR20-700, you will probably get a refurb HR20...
And if you are more concerned with speed and reliability than a larger HDD, that may be a good thing. There is a popular school of thought that the newer DVRs are not so much "improvements" over the HR20 as they are "cheaper to build", meaning there may have been some corners cut. Regardless of whether you subscribe to that or not, the sluggishness reports tend to be about 5% HR20, and 95% non-HR20. And the smaller HDD can be compensated for by replacing it or adding an eSATA. "Latest" may not equate to "best". Ironically, "earliest" just might.
 

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TomCat said:
And the smaller HDD can be compensated for by replacing it or adding an eSATA.
I have an HR20-100 here. Is there a limit to the internal hard drive size? I am thinking about getting one of those WD 2T drives for it.
 

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matt1124 said:
I have an HR20-100 here. Is there a limit to the internal hard drive size? I am thinking about getting one of those WD 2T drives for it.
I just dropped a WD 2 TB into a '-100 last month. Works great.
 

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Also just hooked up a 2TB WD - working beautifully. Unfortunately, in the process I noticed a capacitor on the system board cracked open like a cold beer. :nono2:
 

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AV8TOR said:
So our 3+ year HR20-700 is going to be replaced by DTV in the next couple of days. I have not been following the forum lately what model DVR for HD is the most current or one that I should be sure to not accept.
Anyone know where I can access the program code for the remote to DVR to be IR to pass signals through objects?
Thanks
You've got the best HR that you could possibly have and you're gonna replace it with what? Unless there's something seriously wrong with the 20-700, I'd hang on to that and just stick an Antec MX-1 on it with a large HDD and use it as an eSATA or if you own it, drop a larger HDD in place of the internal drive and you'll really see a difference. If you need help deciding what to do, feel free to PM me.

By the way, the statement "All HRs are functionally equivalent" is true but terribly misleading. My Cadillac is "functionally equivalent" to my wife's Mercury Milan, but it would blow the Milan's doors off in a race. And for comfort, performance and safety there is no comparison. Put the two cars in the same accident and you'll probably walk away unharmed from a totaled Caddie and probably die in the Milan. This "functionally equivalent" nonsense is just a ploy to keep you buying all the other HRs that can't compare to the 20-700s.

Just read the posts and see how many people complain about pitifully slow HRs and you won't see many 20-700s in those posts.

Rich
 

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TomCat said:
I just dropped a WD 2 TB into a '-100 last month. Works great.
Did you have to put a jumper on it to slow it down to 1.5Gbs or does it run at 3Gbs? I couldn't get a WD EADS to run properly on any of my 20-700s and finally put the jumper on a 2TB for 1.5Gbs and it is running really well. I was wondering if the 20-100s had this same problem or if it is specific to the 20-700s.

Rich
 

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premio said:
They must be getting old. My Living Room HR20 had a 14-590 Diagnostic code message today. Since I have OTA, I hope they ship a refurb HR20-700
If you told them you needed OTA you will probably get an HR20. If you said nothing it's luck o' the draw.
 

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TBlazer07 said:
If you told them you needed OTA you will probably get an HR20. If you said nothing it's luck o' the draw.
And the odds on getting a "refurbished" HR are astronomical. What he'll get is a replacement that's been sent back and repacked. Then it, again, becomes the "luck o' the draw" as to whether it will work.

Rich
 

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rich584 said:
And the odds on getting a "refurbished" HR are astronomical. What he'll get is a replacement that's been sent back and repacked. Then it, again, becomes the "luck o' the draw" as to whether it will work.

Rich
Some people have bad luck all the time. Others don't. :) All my HR20's (3 -100's and 1 -700) were "refurbed" and continue without issue.
 

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TBlazer07 said:
Some people have bad luck all the time. Others don't. :) All my HR20's (3 -100's and 1 -700) were "refurbed" and continue without issue.
I think 3 of my HR20-700's are still "originals" from March '07, and 3 are refurbs (2 HR20-700's and 1 HR20-100). All are working fine as well... knock on wood. :)
 

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rich584 said:
You've got the best HR that you could possibly have and you're gonna replace it with what? Unless there's something seriously wrong with the 20-700, I'd hang on to that and just stick an Antec MX-1 on it with a large HDD and use it as an eSATA or if you own it, drop a larger HDD in place of the internal drive and you'll really see a difference. If you need help deciding what to do, feel free to PM me.

Rich
Rich,

I have 3 HR20-700's and all have experienced the same issues since double play was introduced (prior to that no issues). Are you saying that if I add the external drive this will solve the issues of hard drive noise and skipping/dropouts? I got these brand new when they were first released. They are leased. I've been waiting on the sidelines for a software fix since the software caused the issues. I'm not interested in any of the other DVR's because I use OTA and the HR20-700's are the fastest. Also, what hard drive do you recommend?
 

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FWIW, I had the same issues as you with my HR20-700 (probably same age as yours), however my freezes eventually went away with later software updates, although the noise persisted. I replaced my internal drive with a new 500GB seagate and the noise went away. I suppose about any drive will do. I only chose the seagate because it doubled my capacity for only $40.

But if you're still having skipping and dropouts, something else might be going on that a new drive won't fix.

As for the OP's question, Latest and Best are mutually exclusive in this case. With all due respect, you're crazy for wanting to dump your HR20's for inferior HR21/2/3's. The best option is to add capacity to what you've got, assuming you need more capacity.
 

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TBlazer07 said:
Some people have bad luck all the time. Others don't. :) All my HR20's (3 -100's and 1 -700) were "refurbed" and continue without issue.
Yeah, all mine have that "refurbished" sticker on the back of them. I don't believe that any refurbishing goes on at all. Nothing I've seen since I got my first HR and sent it back and got a "refurb" has done anything to make me think that the contractor that D* uses actually fixes anything and I've had more "refurbs" cross my door than anybody I know on this forum.

The only luck involved is getting one that was returned for some reason in working condition and repacked.

Rich
 

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pwalker said:
Rich,

I have 3 HR20-700's and all have experienced the same issues since double play was introduced (prior to that no issues). Are you saying that if I add the external drive this will solve the issues of hard drive noise and skipping/dropouts? I got these brand new when they were first released. They are leased. I've been waiting on the sidelines for a software fix since the software caused the issues. I'm not interested in any of the other DVR's because I use OTA and the HR20-700's are the fastest. Also, what hard drive do you recommend?
The HDD noise is kinda subjective. Several of my 20-700s "chatter" but are not annoying when I'm watching TV with a sound system on. If I had to sit in a room and read with that chattering going on it would annoy me.

Aside from that noise, that has also been called "seeking", I have no noise issues with my 20-700s except for a 60 cycle hum that I am beginning to think is caused by having an eSATA hooked up to the 20-700. Just a tap on the top of the case stops it, but it's done it on five different 20-700s that I had hooked up to Seagate Xtremes. Three of those I own and I dropped 1.5TB Seagate Barracudas into them in place of the internal drives and the 60 cycle hum stopped. I still have one leased 20-700 hooked up to one Xtreme and it has started to hum too.

I'll be searching for owned 20-700s and buying a few more as soon as possible. The Xtremes are eSATAs that come straight out of the box and you can't drop them from 3Gbs to 1.5Gbs, which is what the 20-700 apparently needs to function correctly. I'll also be changing the settings for transfer rate on all my owned 20-700s to 1.5Gbs as soon as I get the kit I ordered that contains the jumpers I need.

I do still see some A/V dropouts but they are very infrequent and don't really bother me.

Regarding the HDDs that I'd recommend, I have used the Seagate Barracudas successfully in Antec MX-1 enclosures and as internals. I just got a 2TB WD EADS HDD to work as an internal in one of my 20-700s. The first three EADS HDDs I bought didn't work and CCarncross advised me to use a jumper to drop the transfer rate to 1.5Gbs. Apparently only the 20-700s are made to run at this transfer rate. I know the 21s, 22s and the 23 all work with the WD EADS set for 3Gbs from reading posts.

So far, the 2TB is running very well, but I want to wait a few weeks before I say positively that I'd recommend it. The EADS will also work properly in an Antec MX-1 enclosure which is the way you should go since your 20-700s are leased. But, apparently, you still need to drop the transfer rate to 1.5Gbs. CCarncross has three 20-700s in MX-1s set for 1.5Gbs and has no problems with them.

By the way, that "chattering" noise I hear is kinda like a clock ticking, but not in the way a clock ticks. It's not tick-tock, it's more tick, tick, tick, tick. I don't know how else to explain it. If they are "seeking" something, they sure aren't finding it.

Can you explain what kind of noise you are getting from yours? The "chattering" is not gonna go away. I doubt that a software update will stop that.

Whatever the noise you're hearing, aside from the "chattering", an external drive might stop it. You'd have to try it to know for sure. If you got those three 20-700s right at the beginning, the internals are over three years old and that's about when I'd expect problems to pop up.

Hope I answered your questions.

Rich
 

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mdavej said:
FWIW, I had the same issues as you with my HR20-700 (probably same age as yours), however my freezes eventually went away with later software updates, although the noise persisted. I replaced my internal drive with a new 500GB seagate and the noise went away. I suppose about any drive will do. I only chose the seagate because it doubled my capacity for only $40.

But if you're still having skipping and dropouts, something else might be going on that a new drive won't fix.

As for the OP's question, Latest and Best are mutually exclusive in this case. With all due respect, you're crazy for wanting to dump your HR20's for inferior HR21/2/3's. The best option is to add capacity to what you've got, assuming you need more capacity.
I think the skipping and dropouts aren't related. I get no skipping at all and very few A/V dropouts. I was absolutely convinced that the NRs caused the dropouts and the noise issues, but now I'm not sure. Stuart Sweet suggested in a post quite a while ago that it might be a coincidence. I think what he was talking about was the change from analog to digital broadcasts and an NR that occurred about the same time. Now, I think he might have been right.

In short, I agree with your post wholeheartedly.

Rich
 
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