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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
We have a HR20 in our bedroom and at some point it stopped working. I'm not sure when and only noticed because recorded shows were not available on the other receivers. I'm stuck in the bedroom now due to covid so I decided to take a look.

I've found is the box doesn't seem to boot. I powers up, the power led lights the disk spins and nothing is ever displayed on the screen. No resolution LEDs light up, it was connected with HDMI but I've seen some reports HDMI can prevent booting so I ran composite to the display with the same results.

Given it doesn't look like firmware ever runs I'm wondering if the firmware got corrupted either through a bad update or something else. I've basically run out of options and wondering if anyone has any thoughts. I have a HR24 I could swap in, but the 20 has the analog in which I use and why it hasn't been upgraded yet. If there's a way to manually flash the firmware I'm happy to try. I can grab the rework station if I need to remove a chip for programming if needed...

I am wondering about the power supply and would like to test pins on the jumper to main board, is there a pinout available or (I know it's a pipe dream) a schematic? PS fuse is good, but I don't think that's a surprise give the power LED lights up and HD spins.
 

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We have a HR20 in our bedroom and at some point it stopped working. I'm not sure when and only noticed because recorded shows were not available on the other receivers. I'm stuck in the bedroom now due to covid so I decided to take a look.

I've found is the box doesn't seem to boot. I powers up, the power led lights the disk spins and nothing is ever displayed on the screen. No resolution LEDs light up, it was connected with HDMI but I've seen some reports HDMI can prevent booting so I ran composite to the display with the same results.

Given it doesn't look like firmware ever runs I'm wondering if the firmware got corrupted either through a bad update or something else. I've basically run out of options and wondering if anyone has any thoughts. I have a HR24 I could swap in, but the 20 has the analog in which I use and why it hasn't been upgraded yet. If there's a way to manually flash the firmware I'm happy to try. I can grab the rework station if I need to remove a chip for programming if needed...

I am wondering about the power supply and would like to test pins on the jumper to main board, is there a pinout available or (I know it's a pipe dream) a schematic? PS fuse is good, but I don't think that's a surprise give the power LED lights up and HD spins.
If possible, can you connect an external HD drive --As it may be a HARD DRIVE fail --as it Lites up
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I checked the voltages on BP201 and found
5.5
5.5
5.5
0
0
13.2
NC
0
4.2
4.2
Which at least look fairly close to some common values of 12V, 5V and 3.3V but...4.2 seems a little strange.
I couldn't help but notice many of the large canister caps do not look healthy. CP201, CP202, CP205 and CP206 have bulging tops. So that may be a good place to start, but without a schematic it will take some work to figure out which voltages are affected I'll look for some replacements to swap in..
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
If possible, can you connect an external HD drive --As it may be a HARD DRIVE fail --as it Lites up
Thanks I did connect another drive to the box, but since it still didn't boot I assumed the drive wasn't the primary problem. Would you agree with that? I'm also pretty sure I do not have the eSATA cable I would need.
 

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Since you don't have the needed eSATA cable then you can't assume it is not the hard drive. Can you open the HR20 and change the hard drive to a known working one and try it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Since you don't have the needed eSATA cable then you can't assume it is not the hard drive. Can you open the HR20 and change the hard drive to a known working one and try it?
Yeah, sorry if that wasn't clear. That was what I had tried I took the drive from an unused HR24 just to see if the system would do anything different. It didn't. I haven't bothered to throw a fresh unpartitioned drive in because I don't have much that supports this being the drive. I say that only because I've been able to startup receivers with bad drives only to find they can't get beyond the checking disk step. This current problem doesn't even display the directv logo on power up, it just has a black HDMI output and no signal on composite out.
 

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Yeah, sorry if that wasn't clear. That was what I had tried I took the drive from an unused HR24 just to see if the system would do anything different. It didn't. I haven't bothered to throw a fresh unpartitioned drive in because I don't have much that supports this being the drive. I say that only because I've been able to startup receivers with bad drives only to find they can't get beyond the checking disk step. This current problem doesn't even display the directv logo on power up, it just has a black HDMI output and no signal on composite out.
Worst case is -Call for a replacement if you're account is with AT&T you can only get a Mini --if your Account is still with D*TV you can still get a 2 tuner hr24 replacement
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Worst case is -Call for a replacement if you're account is with AT&T you can only get a Mini --if your Account is still with D*TV you can still get a 2 tuner hr24 replacement
Thanks I really like the OTA input on this receiver. As luck would have it, I googled the pinouts of the power supply and got lead back to DBSTalk. I didn't get the power supply outputs but I did get confirmation that what I'm seeing can be caused by bad capacitors on the power supply. I've ordered replacements from Digikey and hope to have them by next weekend. I'm feeling pretty good this could bring the tank back to life!
 

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I did get confirmation that what I'm seeing can be caused by bad capacitors on the power supply.
You must replace all bulged capacitors, power supply and other DC-DC converters and VRs
If there are many bulged, I would test all electrolytic capacitor's ESR in-place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
You must replace all bulged capacitors, power supply and other DC-DC converters and VRs
If there are many bulged, I would test all electrolytic capacitor's ESR in-place.
Yup, I'm on it. Digikey says replacements are on the way. I went with Nichicon that should do well and will replace all 6 even though two still look good.

If you happen to know the pinouts of the BP201 I am interested what the voltages should be. This is what I found:
Light Circuit component Font Electronic engineering Electrical wiring
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Digikey parts arrived, an hour or so later 6 1200u 16V caps (CP201, 202, 205, 206, 209 and 210) replaced. Powered up, circle LEDs lit, resolution LED lit, and... Hello. Your Directv receiver is starting up.

It's working again!

If anyone else want to use what I used here's the digikey part details:
Code:
PART: 493-6874-ND
MFG : Nichicon / UHW1C122MPD6
DESC: CAP ALUM 1200UF 20% 16V RADIAL 0.60800 6.08
Here's a couple of pictures of the replacements including a shot to compare the 17mm with the 27mm can height. I was concerned about the size for heat but thought since we're below 16V and 105C they should be fine.

Passive circuit component Circuit component Hardware programmer Audio equipment Electrical wiring

These guys are a lot smaller!


Passive circuit component Circuit component Product Hardware programmer Pliers

The Linear regulator on the right (TP202) gets really hot, as do CP210 and CP209. I was surprised just how hot the transformer gets. I've never really explored transformer temps, but the core was hot.



I've got an updated voltages for the power supply outputs to board interconnect BP201.
Light Circuit component Font Electronic component Electronic engineering


Took some messing with the antenna wires to get them connected right (glad I had asked in another thread 7 years ago about the incorrect silk screen SAT1 being DC supply, it's SAT2! DECA working, can see all the other receivers and stream shows. Things look good!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Sadly there's more to this story. After running for a few hours got a warning about tuning, and checking signal strengths tuner 1 was really good. Tuner2 was all 0's a little while later got a unsafe temp warning needing to shut down until temps return to 60C. Well, that is warmer than I'd expect. I discovered the fan under the hard drive had seized. So I've ordered another 12V .11A 80x25mm fan to go in its place. The three pin connector on the JMC fan does have 5V and ground swapped from the normal configuration so I'll need to move those lines around in the jumper before hooking it up... or do I? This is a DC motor so swapping those pins just means it runs reverse so I could mount the fan upside down and get the same results. Or I think that's correct... never dug too deep into DC motors in school. The important thing I need to know is does the fan below the hard drive pull air in or exhaust air out? Looking at the layout in the box I'm expecting this is an exhaust fan, but can someone confirm that my thinking is right? I didn't make note when removing it and I can't read the dust... Thanks!
 

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I would call in and tell them you need your HR34 replaced as your having trouble with it, tell them you will have a 4K tv soon, this way they give you a HR54.
 

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I would call in and tell them you need your HR34 replaced as your having trouble with it, tell them you will have a 4K tv soon, this way they give you a HR54.
He doesn't have a HR34. His profile states he's using a HR44 with a HR24 and a HR20.
 

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He doesn't have a HR34. His profile states he's using a HR44 with a HR24 and a HR20.
More to the point, the title of the thread is "Looking for thoughts on recovering a HR20".
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks guys, good to know the work of trying to be accurate is caught by most!
I've never seen an HR34. ha ha.
 

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Go Pack Go!!!!
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Sadly there's more to this story. After running for a few hours got a warning about tuning, and checking signal strengths tuner 1 was really good. Tuner2 was all 0's a little while later got a unsafe temp warning needing to shut down until temps return to 60C. Well, that is warmer than I'd expect. I discovered the fan under the hard drive had seized. So I've ordered another 12V .11A 80x25mm fan to go in its place. The three pin connector on the JMC fan does have 5V and ground swapped from the normal configuration so I'll need to move those lines around in the jumper before hooking it up... or do I? This is a DC motor so swapping those pins just means it runs reverse so I could mount the fan upside down and get the same results. Or I think that's correct... never dug too deep into DC motors in school. The important thing I need to know is does the fan below the hard drive pull air in or exhaust air out? Looking at the layout in the box I'm expecting this is an exhaust fan, but can someone confirm that my thinking is right? I didn't make note when removing it and I can't read the dust... Thanks!
What Specific model do you have- a HR20-100 or -700?

I would consider just getting a used HR20 off eBay for parts, for the power supply and fan. That will save a bunch of hassle and time. There’s several -700’s on eBay right now. I’ve gone that route the few times I’ve needed to.

Edit- I just saw your cross-post on the old HR20-100 thread. I’ll check my backup stock. I may have saved the PS from my old 20-100 when it died. I have no use for it anymore if I did save it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
What Specific model do you have- a HR20-100 or -700?
...
Edit- I just saw your cross-post on the old HR20-100 thread. I’ll check my backup stock. I may have saved the PS from my old 20-100 when it died. I have no use for it anymore if I did save it.
Yes 20-100S I don't know what the S indicates but there is an S at the end on the label below the card slot.

The new caps and new fan are at least working, but there are momentary losses of image which I'm working to troubleshoot. I suspect it either tuner or drive issue. I'll reseat all cables today. This glitch does repeat on rewind which is why I'm thinking it's from tuner to hard drive, seems like data source or capture issue. I have reset the DECA (and that appears to need a specific startup sequence), and the box. Temps stay below 110F (43C) which is much better than with the dead fan. I'll also reset the swm inserter tonight.
 

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I just checked my parts stock. I must have tossed that extra PS 2 years ago, after my other HR20-100 suffered a motherboard failure. All I have stocked are HR24-100, -200, and -500 PS’s, bezels and fans, and spare HR54-500 fans.

The ‘S’ after the HR20-100 denoted Silver. There were some HR20-100B IRD’s produced early on (black in color) but was a very limited supply. Most of those shipped out to customers were silver.

I do have a couple of antennas left, that were used on the -100’s that I don’t need anymore. That was for using the IRD in RF mode.
 
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