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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok,

We built a new house and had directv install the AT9 dish at the new house. They were suppose to bring an HR20 back when they moved us. Short story on that is they didn't show up for the initial install (installer had an accident or so they say). DirecTV tells me that the HR20 on the order is the real holdup since it is backordered. They remove it from the order and the installer comes out last sunday. Puts the dish up and brings two multiswitches (6x8 zinwells I believe), and brings me an H20 to use until the HR20 is available).

Anyway some feedback on the install.

Installer mounts dish on side of brick. He did NOT do the calibration as detailed on the DirecTV videos. He just calibrated 101 and 119, and didn't touch that dither lock to fine tune the azimuth. He claimed that doing that is not needed and directv is just feeding people a line of bull on that step!!!!

He takes the two multiswitches and connects the dish outputs to the four inputs of the first switch. Then he connects the first four outputs of the first multiswitch to the first four inputs on the second multiswitch. The H20 is connected to an output on the first multiswitch.

I have 4 other DirecTV DVR's. (1 HR10, 3 SD units). All connected to the rest of the multiswitch outputs.

HR10 and SD units work great. H20 works fine also. Get MPEG4 locals with it.

A supervisor for the installer (Bluegrass) comes out to check my dish because I didn't like that the previous installer didn't do anything with the dither lock for fine tuning. Also wanted to be sure the multiswitches were correct.

The supervisor just connected his meter and took a reading on 101 and 119. Said they don't need to do anything else. Claimed the dither lock stuff wasn't needed as they have steamlined the process! Everything I have read and seen online seems to indicate this is not the case.

He said the multiswitch is fine also as wired. Just plug all mpeg4 devices into the four outputs on the first switch that are left.

Now for my big problem. I got an HR20 today from Circuit City. Connected it up to 2 ports on the first multiswitch.

At first when booting up it hung up when entering my zip code in the guided setup.

Upon rebooting it would hang at the "not much longer" screen for ever and not go past it. Took 3-4 reboots to get past that screen.

When I was able to get past that I was able to watch TV, but after a few minutes of changing channels it usually freezes up. Most of the time the lock ups are the GUI. You can still see live tv, but the remote no longer responds, the buttons on the HR20 don't respond either.

I basically have to reboot. Then it is a crap shoot to get past that "not much longer" screen.

I forced the download of 0xE3 and have done the reformat option, and the clear everything option from the reset menu.

I have tried not using those B adaptors (or whatever they are called) and tried different cables also.

Inevitably though it locks up. Most of the lockups the GUI doesn't respond. Sometimes it responds but I lose channels (I get GUI screens, but no channel video).

I am "supposedly" getting a replacement in 2-3 days, but I am open to any suggestions to get this thing working in case there is something I am not doing.

I was worried that my problem might be related to the multiswitch wiring or something else, and that a new unit will still face problems.

Also since I doubt I will get a new HR20 in 2-3 days, if I can do something to get this thing working, it would be great.

HELP!
 

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I doubt that your problems are "related to the multiswitch wiring". I think you simply got a defective HR20. Couldn't you exchange it at Circuit City?

If you're concerned about how the installer calibrated your dish, post back with the signal readings that you're seeing with the HR20 on the 99-deg and 103-deg satellites (the Ka-band MPEG4 HD Locals satellites).
 

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First, your multiswitch setup is wrong. The WB68 multiswitches are NOT cascadable, they are non-powered and the satellite selection signals from the receiver often do not get to the dish properly. The WB68 manual specifically says they are not cascadable, and people who have tried it have confirmed there are problems. (If the second multiswitch were an older, powered multiswitch, it works OK, but none of the outputs from the second multiswitch would be compatible with the new receivers).So even though your SD receivers work today there is no guarantee they will work tomorrow. You need a WB16, or four broadband splitters (two-way power-passing) to drive the two WB68s. Get DirecTV back to fix this.
However, this is probably nothing to do with your issue with the HR20. If the H20 works OK and the HR20 does not, and they are connected to the first multiswitch, it's almost certain you have a bad HR20.
 

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texasbrit is right. You need the WB16 multiswitch and it does sound like you've got a bad HR20.

As for the dish peaking, as long as your signals are all in the 90's, I wouldn't worry about it. That installation method is the same thing the tech who installed my dish used and it worked great. He pre-set the angles based on my ZIP code, then hooked up a signal meter, moved the dish back and forth to find the peak and then just locked it down. My signals in the 99 sat (my locals) are in the mid-90's, my signals everywhere else are in the mid-upper 90s.

Good luck with the replacement box.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I have a 3x8 multiswitch that can be powered. Would this be useful?

Does DirecTV have the 16 port switch? Is there any specific level of support to talk to there that will confirm that I need the 16 port switch and send me one?

The local installer said my two 8 ports were fine, and of course the supervisor who was suppose to be their "expert" said it was fine. He told me the powered passing splitters were non-directv certified.
 

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The switch model is WB616, not WB16, isn't it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
On the phone with directv now.

The people I am talking to don't know anything. They want to refer any of my multiswitch issues to my local installer. Which I have tried already and they tell me everything is fine.

Directv claims there is nobody there to talk to (at Directv) about multiswitch configuration, and dish calibration questions. They only handle programming issues, and scheduling.

Guess I should just buy some power passing splitters myself.
 

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belboz said:
On the phone with directv now.

The people I am talking to don't know anything. They want to refer any of my multiswitch issues to my local installer. Which I have tried already and they tell me everything is fine.

Directv claims there is nobody there to talk to (at Directv) about multiswitch configuration, and dish calibration questions. They only handle programming issues, and scheduling.

Guess I should just buy some power passing splitters myself.
Did you call retention? They are usually more helpful.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Twosted said:
Did you call retention? They are usually more helpful.
Yes.

Retention is where I always start my call.

They said they couldn't answer any multiswitch questions. I needed to talk to the local installer, or tech level II.

Tech level II said they couldn't help me. Talk to local installer only. Couldn't get them to send a 16 port zinwell. Said they don't carry installation stuff.
 

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belboz said:
Yes.

Retention is where I always start my call.

They said they couldn't answer any multiswitch questions. I needed to talk to the local installer, or tech level II.

Tech level II said they couldn't help me. Talk to local installer only. Couldn't get them to send a 16 port zinwell. Said they don't carry installation stuff.
The only thing I can suggest is to find somwhere that you can buy the zinwell. Then tell d* that your installer wouldn't come out and replace it. They should have no problem with reimbursing you with the cost. I have no idea where you could get a zinwell. Maybe someone else does.
 

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Twosted said:
Wow, I didn't realize how expensive they were. Yea, check with D* first to make sure they will reimburse you before you spend that much money.
?Yeah, they're not cheap. Probably the biggest reason the installer wanted nothing to do with doing it right. They probably don't even have any.
 
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