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Need advice on what RG6 cable to run in my house

11159 Views 25 Replies 11 Participants Last post by  P Smith
Hi,

I currently have DISH but will be going back to DirecTV once my contract is past the 1 year mark. I have an older house that wasn't wired for coax. So I have a ton of black coax cable running around the outside of my house, which looks like crap. I'm going to stucco my house soon, so I want it gone.

I use DSL for Internet, but could later on get a cable modem perhaps.

I'm going to buy the cable and run it to my outlets. This will involve cutting holes in my ceilings and patching them up. So I need to make sure I get the right cable and do the job right the first time!

So my main question.... do I need solid copper core? Runs are no longer than 60' and will be inside. Do I need quad shield?

What type of connectors should I install?

Should I run two coax cables to each outlet? I plan on having a DVR in my family room and a couple HD receivers in the bedrooms/living room. I want them to be able to watch anything on the DVR.

I will also be running CAT5e to each outlet. I take it I can run the coax and CAT5 next to each other?

I just need someone with knowledge to tell me exactly what cable to get and where to buy it. I'm tired of searching and getting a bunch of different answers :) Probably a spool of 500' will be enough.
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Any kind of RG-6 will be good for in-wall install; use compression type of connectors. No big deal with copper-clad, while I would use solid copper. How long ? I would begin worried if it come to 100'. Two cables are good, just in case of using pre-SWM boxes or run TV output via RF modulator to other TV- it's up to your decision what boxes will be used. Cat5/6/7/etc wiil perfectly coexist with coax.
Interesting. Then I might just by a spool at Lowes if a solid core isn't that important, so I can start on this project tomorrow.

Should be OK?
Sure, it could be an issue if you'll need long run 100'+ ...
Great, thanks much.

No runs will be over 100' for sure. I got a small house :)
Boy do I identify with your question. When you are on the outside looking in, the technologies of DirecTV can be really confusing. And when I called their technical service for answers I ended up with additional confusion.

The answer is not as simple as it seems it should be, but I will give it a try. I am going to assume you are talking about at least two HD receivers which in turn typically triggers a SWM install. The basic SWM LNB supports 8 tuners which sounds like a lot, but goes away quickly when one of them is an HR34 which has 5 tuners. Each HD DVR (other than the HR34) has two tuners. This is important to know because the basic SWM only requires one coax going to the dish, while the more complex SWM-16 requires three lines (one for each 8 tuner signal and one for power). So you really need to take an honest appraisal of what you want in terms of receivers since the answer drives two completely different wiring requirements.

Next you have the issue of solid copper or copper clad. The satellite signals are happy with either avenue. But, on your basic SWM the coax carries the power from inside your house to the LNB. That power is only 21 volts and really wants solid copper to make sure the proper voltage gets to the SWM head. It takes a separate power line for the SWM-16. For the dish to inside the house part of your work, I would suggest designating a spot where the installer will do that run and let him do it. They have the right stuff for that. (On my installation they used solid copper coax with an integrated grounding line and attached the ground to my electrical meter box that was close by.)

Now you are down to distribution. This is where I did the wiring myself. While not preferred, I used copper-clad RG-6 which seems to be quite satisfactory. I designated a spot in the attic where I wanted the splitter to go and ran all the wires from there. I left those ends open and let the installer do the terminations. I did the terminations on the wall plate connections myself. Note that the installer will want to be sure that all barrel splices have the blue insert (which supposedly means they are tested for 3 GHz). They need to have that since if they have a QA guy show up to check the install they will get dinged if they are not there.

That leaves establishing a network connection. Just so you know, all MRV signals are intended to move over your coax network. (Yes you can put them on your router, but D* is designed to carry them over your coax.) And if you get any HR25s in your setup, there is no network cable connection on that box. D* expects to have any outside internet signal injected on their coax network. The easiest device for that today is the wireless CCK. You just insert this puppy in one of the coax lines and presto any DVR that wants internet is connected. So, while your cat/whatever lines could be used for connecting to your receivers, I would not recommend it.

Hope this helps.
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Thanks! I'm fairly confident now to buy the Lowe's stuff. Did you get dual or quad shield? Does it make a difference?

Also, barrel connectors are the ones that go into the outlet plate right? One end you screw the crimp on, and the other goes to your DVR.
For you it will be no difference, only if you live close to strong radio emitting devices, like radars at airport or a base.
A barrel in the case, means that RF part what inside of wall plate with two F-connections.
I would run 2 RG6 and 2 CAT5e to each outlet. That way if you may need an extra one sometime down the road, it will already be there and you wont need to open up your walls again.
future install of simple switch will help more easy than pulling two CAT5 now, IMO
PokerMunkee said:
Thanks! I'm fairly confident now to buy the Lowe's stuff. Did you get dual or quad shield? Does it make a difference?

Also, barrel connectors are the ones that go into the outlet plate right? One end you screw the crimp on, and the other goes to your DVR.
As has already been stated, just the normal shielding is fine, unless you live where there is a lot of RF around (ie. you have a ham radio operator in your neighborhood).

Here are the barrel connectors you need. And, NO, you do not use any crimp connectors. You use compression fittings like these. Although you can seek out other suppliers that are less expensive and work with another compression tool.
DirecTV specification is for solid copper center conductor. Where that matters is between wherever your power source is, and the LNB on the dish. If that is a relatively short run, then copper clad steel will be no problem. But CCS has much greater resistance/voltage drop than does solid copper.

Typically you will wire from the dish to a central location, and from there out to your tv locations. I would suggest solid copper from the dish to the central location (and I would put in four coax for that). CCS from the central location to your tv location should be just fine. Because you will almost certainly be running SWM from your central location out to your TV locations, a single coax run should be sufficient. But, if your pulling wire anyway I would highly recommend a second coax be run at the same time.

As someone noted, compression connectors everyplace. Don't even think about crimps.

The reason for four coax from the dish location is so that you can support a regular (non-SWM) LNB should your tuner count ever exceed 8 (in which case you will have to use an external SWM16 multiswitch, which requires 4 coax from the dish).
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Do yourself a favor and save money do not put connectors on because 99% of them will be cut off and new ones put on by the tech as there are only a few brands that are approved for use. I would even go as far as dont even put the wall plates on just run the coax and let the tech do the rest because the tech is suppose to be using wall plates with orange f-81 connectors and they supply them to you.
west99999 said:
Do yourself a favor and save money do not put connectors on because 99% of them will be cut off and new ones put on by the tech as there are only a few brands that are approved for use. I would even go as far as dont even put the wall plates on just run the coax and let the tech do the rest because the tech is suppose to be using wall plates with orange f-81 connectors and they supply them to you.
That's very nice advise ! I'd like it very much ! :)
Sweet, thanks everyone!! Definitely like the idea of the tech crimping the cables I ran.
P Smith said:
future install of simple switch will help more easy than pulling two CAT5 now, IMO
If you are pulling cable anyway, it is no more difficult to pull two cables than it is to pull one. CAT5 cable is cheap compared to the price of a switch. When I have to pull cable to new locations in my house, I run two CAT5 cables and two RG6 quad shield. That allows me to connect both the TV and the DirecTV receiver to my network and gives me the option of OTA diplexed with DirecTV on one coax or OTA on one cable and DirecTV with Ethernet over coax on the other coax.

I can have one box with two Cat5 connectors and two coax connectors coming through one wall plate. That should future proof me for at least six months until something better comes along :D

If the Cat5 cable is already there, then I agree that a switch is far easier than pulling a cable. If there is only one coax and no Cat5, then you have to choose between OTA or Ethernet over coax, since you cannot have both
Nay, if you'll not rush, you could buy (from Fry's) 5 port switch for $5.
Counting that, I see no advantage of pulling two CAT5 cables.
I can tell you more - if you not need 1 Gbps line, you could split one cable for two connections pretty easy. Or use for Ethernet and phone/DSL same way.
P Smith said:
Nay, if you'll not rush, you could buy (from Fry's) 5 port switch for $5.
Counting that, I see no advantage of pulling two CAT5 cables.
I can tell you more - if you not need 1 Gbps line, you could split one cable for two connections pretty easy. Or use for Ethernet and phone/DSL same way.
Am I looking for the wrong thing? The least expensive switch I could find at FRY's is $25 after a $10 rebate. I have not found a switch locally for less than $45.
That's why I said "if you'll not rush". Patience will be rewarded.
Does anyone know how long that solid copper rg6 has been a directv stander. I have a 4 wire dish and switching over to a single wire using a swm8 and same dish, cables are a twin led and 4 years old, and would not like to replace the them if I can avoid it, or is there a real simple way to tell, solid from clad
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