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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am finishing up the prewire on my home and was wondering what I could do to get the 5 RG6’s that I have pulled ready from the dish when the installer puts in the dish. Typically do the installers just breach the “header” under to eve and run the cabling to a weatherproof box. I would like to get the cable outside along with the ground wire. I have access to the grounding pole that the electricians grounded the electrical panel to so I figured I could run that as well to a box outside mounted under the eves along with my 5 RG6’s and have it all ready for the installers. I have ran a conduit through the attic back to my wiring panel in a closet that has the RG6 in it. I was thinking I could get the installers to installl the dish and I could put the multiswiutch in the wiring cabinet and distrubute it from there. So I am looking for a way to get all the cables RG6’s and ground wire outside that the installer can connect too…. If anyone happens to have pictures of something like what I am doing it would be great….Thanks
 

· Beware the Attack Basset
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Generally speaking they don't use enclosures or junction boxes for anything. They drill holes and if you're lucky, they'll caulk them. Keep in mind also that to be painfully correct, anything that you wish to ground to your bonding point must have a wire that runs directly from the device to the bonding point.

If it makes sense to come in through the attic, they'll often try to use a soffit vent.

Remember also that the fewer couplers you have, the better. Insertion loss can be a demon. It may not look professional to have cables hanging out of the wall, but it is the best thing you can do. What I've been doing with cables that I don't use immediately is stuffing the wire back into the wall and putting a blank outlet cover over the hole.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
harsh said:
Generally speaking they don't use enclosures or junction boxes for anything. They drill holes and if you're lucky, they'll caulk them. Keep in mind also that to be painfully correct, anything that you wish to ground to your bonding point must have a wire that runs directly from the device to the bonding point.

If it makes sense to come in through the attic, they'll often try to use a soffit vent.

Remember also that the fewer couplers you have, the better. Insertion loss can be a demon. It may not look professional to have cables hanging out of the wall, but it is the best thing you can do. What I've been doing with cables that I don't use immediately is stuffing the wire back into the wall and putting a blank outlet cover over the hole.
I do have maybe 6' of RG6 that would extend out past the hole so I may have enough to go straight to the LNB's without any couplers. So if I were to run a ground wire from my bonding point and leave enough excess on it for the installer to use that would work? I do have some soffit vents at the same location should I just go through those?
 

· Beware the Attack Basset
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MPNX2 said:
So if I were to run a ground wire from my bonding point and leave enough excess on it for the installer to use that would work?
Technically, the installer needs a dedicated ground wire (not shared with other devices) to hook to a grounding block that they are supposed to install. Running long and looping through is not allowed by code.
I do have some soffit vents at the same location should I just go through those?
Unless you're jonesin' to try out one of those 18V caulking guns.

Be certain that you leave enough cable that the cable actually sags down a bit before entering the house. This will prevent water from finding its way in. You should make all bends in the cable at least 3" radius. The textbook calls for six inch diameter "drip loops" before penetrating.
 

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D* won't set up an install for you until your home construction is complete..the way to go is just have the electrician do it with the rest of the wiring...I do that for a lot of new home construction work that I get. Then all that you have to do is find a good place for your dish to be mounted and route the cable there...it's the most pain free way to get it done.
 

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Keep in mind that we can only run 20' of grounding wire between the ground and the grounding block. You can thank the cable guys for that one.
 
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