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AllStar
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I will be moving into a new house at the end of May. I was hoping for a sanity check on the new install. I had conduit (smurf tube) run from the dish mounting point outside of the house to the indoor utility closet where all the RG6 from individual rooms also terminate. Each room has two RG-6 coaxial lines run (I know I only need one per STB/DVR). Internet connection will be in the closet as well.

In the current house I have 2 HR24s and a H24 and a H21. They are connected to a SWM 1x8 switch. (See diagram below.)

In the new house I want to add a non-DVR STB like the H24 for a total of two DVRs and three non-DVR tuners.

Will I be able to just use a single SWM 1x8 switch like I am now?
Will I be able to use a single RG6 coax line from the LNB to the switch?
Do I need to switch to the HR34?



Thanks.
 

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Cool Member
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Will I be able to just use a single SWM 1x8 switch like I am now? Yes, your current LNB supports 8 tuners

Will I be able to use a single RG6 coax line from the LNB to the switch? Yes

Do I need to switch to the HR34? Only if you want to. If you upgrade you will be required to switch to a SWM16 which supports 16 tuners (The HR34 has 5 tuners, DVR's have 2, and regular STB's have 1)
 

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AllStar
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the quick reply. One more question.

jbhsv said:
If you upgrade you will be required to switch to a SWM16 which supports 16 tuners (The HR34 has 5 tuners, DVR's have 2, and regular STB's have 1)
Does the SWM16 still only require a single RG-6 coaxial input?
 

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Cool Member
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The swm16 requires a legacy lnb which requires 4 cables.
 

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Legend
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A note on the SWM-16, you need the 4 coax lines from the dish to the SWM box, but that can be located outside. You would then need two coax lines into your house; one probably going directly to your HR34 (if you do that) and the other going to where you show the splitter. And the SWM-16 illustrations typically show a separate line for power so you would need that as well. (Although some forum posts make it sound like it can be driven via signal coax similar to the SWM LNB.)

And a minor tweak on your diagram; the SWM LNB takes a separate 21-volt Power Inserter, not a DECA power supply.
 

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Cool Member
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Looking at your diagram I think you'll need a CCK or CCK-W between your wireless router and splitter. Unless you go with the HR34. Then you can just connect a network cable into it and it will work as a bridge connecting the rest of your receivers.
 

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1*
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BobStokesbary said:
And the SWM-16 illustrations typically show a separate line for power so you would need that as well. (Although some forum posts make it sound like it can be driven via signal coax similar to the SWM LNB.)
Power for a SWM16 can be provided directly to the power port or through the SWM1 port. By using the SWM1 port, the PI can be placed in-line to any other receivers or splitters that are off of the SWM1 port.

- Merg
 

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A common mistake people make is not allowing for proper grounding of the satellite dish. You do not need to run your coax from the closet to the dish location you need to run it to the side of the house where your power meter will be. I would run 6 coax cables from the closet to the power meter and then from the closet 1 or 2 to each room.
 

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AllStar
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"BobStokesbary" said:
A note on the SWM-16, you need the 4 coax lines from the dish to the SWM box, but that can be located outside. You would then need two coax lines into your house; one probably going directly to your HR34 (if you do that) and the other going to where you show the splitter. And the SWM-16 illustrations typically show a separate line for power so you would need that as well. (Although some forum posts make it sound like it can be driven via signal coax similar to the SWM LNB.)

And a minor tweak on your diagram; the SWM LNB takes a separate 21-volt Power Inserter, not a DECA power supply.
You mean a 29v for a swim module correct?
 
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