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· Legend
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As you may or may not know, Hurricane IKE made it's way all the way to Ohio about a week ago. Well, it wasn't really Hurricane strength by the time it got to Ohio, but we have 74 MPH Gusts for several hours that caused all kinds of damage (trees, power, roofs, etc.). (I know this doesn't compare to the devastation that others have experienced with Hurricanes.)

As a result, we lost a bunch of shingles off the roof. Since we have a 20-year old roof, we are planning to just replace it. Problem is that my Dish is mounted on the roof.

What is the best way to deal with this? I really don't want the roofers messing with the dish. I do have a brick chimney right next to where the dish is currently mounted.

Should I have the dish moved to the chimney? Should I have the dish removed, have the new roof installed, and then reinstall the dish?? Any other suggestions??

Thanks in advance for any advice and suggestions.
 

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· Beware the Attack Basset
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I'd remove and replace the dish on the roof. Many of the popular chimney mounts aren't rated for the behemoth dish.

Assuming the dish was set up correctly in the first place, you should only have make sure the mast is plumb and the dish is pointing in the right direction. Use enough goo to make sure everything is water-tight.
 

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The thread that BarryB posted is a good one. The commdeck mount is a good one, you can even remove the dish down the road with no roof damage.

If you decide not to go with the commdeck, one thing that can be done is to make some marks on the soffit/gutter marking the rafter locations. This will go a long way in ensuring that the tech hits solid material with the lag bolts.

Also, contrary to harsh's bias and missinformation concerning the slimline, it can be mounted to a chimney, provided a few conditions are met. It needs to be a real chimney, not one of those fake ones. It also needs to be in good condition with solid morter. However, some HSPs don't like to mount to the chimney due to the extra stress the slimline can put on it. Liability and a sue happy public and all that.
 

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Thanks to Altcool for the original info and Barryb for the linkage...

We're about to have our roof re-shingled as a result of hail earlier this year. I'll be ordering a Commdeck and the associated strut clips!

Now just to find a local installer to come out and do the work on the day that the roofing guys are there. Anyone have the name of an installer in the Minneapolis area they would recommend?
 

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jleupen said:
Thanks to all for their advice. Sounds like I should stay with the roof mount.

I guess I just need to decide whether or not I want to tackle this myself or pay someone to do it...
Ah yes.... the million dollar question.

On one hand: you could save yourself some bucks if you do it.

On the other hand: you would lose some if you paid someone else.

If you do it, and don't do it correct, then its on you. If someone else does it, then its on them.

Have you thought about calling Directv to see if they will pay for the reinstall?
 

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Thaedron said:
Thanks to Altcool for the original info and Barryb for the linkage...

We're about to have our roof re-shingled as a result of hail earlier this year. I'll be ordering a Commdeck and the associated strut clips!

Now just to find a local installer to come out and do the work on the day that the roofing guys are there. Anyone have the name of an installer in the Minneapolis area they would recommend?
If your coax comes off the dish and is on the exterior of your home, take a look at the Retrodeck and strut clips instead. Looks great, works great (less $) and the roofers could even install it for you or you can install it yourself. Commdeck is great if lines go into you attic.
 

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This is the chance to run the lines into the attic.

Replacing the mast with a 2" od pipe attached inside the roof with thru bolts, washers & nuts run in a truss is an idea. Make it plumb and have the roofer use a standard 2" pipe flange to waterproof.

Or the Commdeck while reshingling.

Joe
 

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I have a comm-deck that I installed myself and it was a simple install. I ran all the coax through my house. The installer said it was the easiest install he has ever done. (I know I did all the hard parts).
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
joe diamond said:
This is the chance to run the lines into the attic.

Replacing the mast with a 2" od pipe attached inside the roof with thru bolts, washers & nuts run in a truss is an idea. Make it plumb and have the roofer use a standard 2" pipe flange to waterproof.

Or the Commdeck while reshingling.

Joe
Thanks for the suggestion, however there is no attic in this part of the house - vaulted ceiling inside. I may go with the Retrodeck option.
 

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jleupen said:
Thanks for the suggestion, however there is no attic in this part of the house - vaulted ceiling inside. I may go with the Retrodeck option.
OR

you could drill a 2" hole in the roof deck & fish the cables down the roof to the edge...........run the dish end of the cables out through the standard mast. Cut off the fittings and you can run four cables through the mast........Have the roofer use a standard 2" roof flange over the regular DTV mast.

OR NOT

Joe
 

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barryb said:
Ah yes.... the million dollar question.

On one hand: you could save yourself some bucks if you do it.

On the other hand: you would lose some if you paid someone else.

If you do it, and don't do it correct, then its on you. If someone else does it, then its on them.

Have you thought about calling Directv to see if they will pay for the reinstall?
FWIW - I too had some roof damage from the wind and recently had to have the roof replaced. I've got a Slimline mounted to the roof. The roofers did their best to "reset" the dish after replacing the shingles, but my new Mpeg signals from (103c / 99c??) dropeed dramatically. I think they were reading in the mid 30's. This was the week before the NFL ST/SF was to get underway, so I called D*.

They offered to send a guy out for $29 if I signed up for the protection plan ($5/mo) for one year. She also said I could cancel at any time (for a $10 fee). I did the math and for $35 I could get pro to do this and I wouldn't have to get up on a steep 2 story roof.

The installer was excellent - he actually had a KU meter and told me he did that "dither" thing that I've seen people refer to. My signals got up to the high 80's - low 90's. I was prepared to cancel the protection plan at that point, but then saw the upcoming week's weather report......high winds possible from Ike......I decided to keep the plan in place...

All worked out well....
 
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