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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys and gals, I did an install today with a au9 w/ an sl3 and a 36" international, It was a 1 box hddvr install, no cck, just the box. Anyways, I am stumped as to why I am not getting a signal to the receiver. Please let me know if I installed something wrong. I got the 4 lines coming from the kaku, and the 1 coming from the 36" 95degree satellite. There was a line already outside the home that I used to connect to the swm1/pwr port on the swm8 switch. that line ran inside to a q-panel which I toned out and put the line on the pwr to swm on the 29v power inserter, then I toned out the line going to the room where the hddvr was going and hooked that to the ird out on the Power inserter, seemed pretty cut and dry to me but I cant get any signal from the dish to the box. Please let me know, I have to go back out to the customers house in the morning to fix it. Thanks in advance
 

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Passive device in the old coax line, passing the tone, but blocking the DC would be my guess. Hook a 9V battery to the coax inside with alligator clips, and see if you get 8-9V on the outside end. If not, you found your problem.
 

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Davenlr said:
Passive device in the old coax line, passing the tone, but blocking the DC would be my guess. Hook a 9V battery to the coax inside with alligator clips, and see if you get 8-9V on the outside end. If not, you found your problem.
If you can measure the 9 volts, why not check the PI 29?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Its an HR24-500 HDDVR. Its not detecting the swm on setup, I am using a 29v PI..I went up in the attic just to make sure the line wasnt connected to any type of splitter, and it is a homerun to the receiver. Thanks for the comment, the wiring could be a little neater under the eave though..The house is brand new, the wiring has never been touched before I got there. Ive been doing DTV for 6 years and am a little embarressed that I couldnt find the issue..This was a directsat job, which the customer gets everything shipped to them in a box. I am a sub contractor and we dont store extra equipment as in sw8 switchs and 29v Power inserters..
 

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Can you use a meter where you can test each line to the SWM16? I would think though, that if the SWM16 was working, the receiver would detect it, even if there was no signal from the dish, so I would look at the receiver to SWM16 path then. Maybe they sent them a bad SWM16 or bad PI.
 

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I'd still be checking/looking for the 29 volts at the SWM8.
If it's been on for a while it should feel "slightly" warm.

Is there a green LED on the PI?
Some have them inside, so you need to look through the vents to see it.
 

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Davenlr said:
Can you use a meter where you can test each line to the SWM16? I would think though, that if the SWM16 was working, the receiver would detect it, even if there was no signal from the dish, so I would look at the receiver to SWM16 path then. Maybe they sent them a bad SWM16 or bad PI.
It's a SWM8 :lol:
 

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vh45dez32 said:
Yes there is a green led on top of the PI..
So the PI "thinks" it's working and if the SWM8 has any warmth in it, it's getting power.
Could this be something so simple as the coax from the PI to the HR24 being bad or connected to the wrong SAT input?
Your work looked so good, I wouldn't be thinking something "simple" was wrong, but "you never know", and it's not like I've ever done something like that. :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
LOL we all make mistakes..some dumber than other..Ive hook the SWM In and IRD out on the PI backwards multiple times, but I double checked everything..Checked every fitting for braid, making sure they were flush..Ill get back out there tomorrow and see whats going on. I got a pretty good idea of whats going with your guys help, I appreciate it..Ill check the warmth of the SWM8 and see if its getting power..I spent 3 hours on a one box trying to figure it out..Kinda to long for me but I like to take care of my customers and make sure everything looks good and functions like it should. I hung the customers 55" Samsung LED, I was irritated because I am super impressed by the picture those things put out, and I didnt get to see it...
 

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vh45dez32 said:
LOL we all make mistakes..some dumber than other..Ive hook the SWM In and IRD out on the PI backwards multiple times, but I double checked everything..Checked every fitting for braid, making sure they were flush..Ill get back out there tomorrow and see whats going on. I got a pretty good idea of whats going with your guys help, I appreciate it..Ill check the warmth of the SWM8 and see if its getting power..I spent 3 hours on a one box trying to figure it out..Kinda to long for me but I like to take care of my customers and make sure everything looks good and functions like it should. I hung the customers 55" Samsung LED, I was irritated because I am super impressed by the picture those things put out, and I didnt get to see it...
Does your meter read the SWM signals?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
No I use an SL3, I have a birdog version 4 usb..Ive been using the sl3 for years and never have signal issues doing it that way..Using an asl is to much work...A sat buddy is to expensive and too big..My meter does have the swm signal meters on it but I have never used it..I know the birdog doesnt have enought voltage to power to the SWM lnb.
 

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vh45dez32 said:
No I use an SL3, I have a birdog version 4 usb..Ive been using the sl3 for years and never have signal issues doing it that way..Using an asl is to much work...A sat buddy is to expensive and too big..My meter does have the swm signal meters on it but I have never used it..I know the birdog doesnt have enought voltage to power to the SWM lnb.
The "Plus" has a display for the SWiM outputs, which in this case would verify it this is the receiver, the coax, or nothing out of the SWiM.
With Ka beams being narrower than the Ku, it's best to dither off of them than the Ku.
 

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veryoldschool said:
The "Plus" has a display for the SWiM outputs, which in this case would verify it this is the receiver, the coax, or nothing out of the SWiM.
With Ka beams being narrower than the Ku, it's best to dither off of them than the Ku.
It should be noted that DirecTV's service call training states the opposite. It says peaking the 101 provides the best overall peak, while peaking the 99 or 103 optimizes one, but lowers the others.
 

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dielray said:
It should be noted that DirecTV's service call training states the opposite. It says peaking the 101 provides the best overall peak, while peaking the 99 or 103 optimizes one, but lowers the others.
There is no merit to this.
If your meter can't read the Ka SATs, then you can only use Ku.
The dish has enough adjustments so there is no need to bias the alignment for one SAT at the expense of another.
The broader beam of the Ku means it isn't as critical to be centered as the Ka are.
DirecTV's training is dated, and at this point in time, like many other aspects, "in error".

Following this outdated method, may lead to more rainfade with the HD channels.
 
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