how thick is the wood, what kind of wood (Plywood or solid)premio said:I'd like to install a Slimline on the vertical fascia of the fireplace chimney (wood - not mason), and Install the SWM8 next to the dish outdoors in a weatherproof box. I want to run one cable to the master bedroom and one to the living room, use the living room to have the power injector inside to feed the SWM. I will also be diplexing my OTA which is installed on the same chimney. The chimney is one of those newer home inserts with the 12"? metal pipe. The fascia is built up around it to match the siding of the house.
What should I buy to insure the stability of the dish? Should I use the mover's connection, find sidework from a reputable tech in Sacramento?
Looks like solidsignal is the best for the dish, and one of our fellow forum visitors for the SWM.
Any input is appreciated. I'm now 100% OTA
Re-install - How and What?
I'd like to install a Slimline on the vertical fascia of the fireplace chimney (wood - not mason), and Install the SWM8 next to the dish outdoors in a weatherproof box. I want to run one cable to the master bedroom and one to the living room, use the living room to have the power injector inside to feed the SWM. I will also be diplexing my OTA which is installed on the same chimney. The chimney is one of those newer home inserts with the 12"? metal pipe. The fascia is built up around it to match the siding of the house.
What should I buy to insure the stability of the dish? Should I use the mover's connection, find sidework from a reputable tech in Sacramento?
Looks like solidsignal is the best for the dish, and one of our fellow forum visitors for the SWM.
Any input is appreciated. I'm now 100% OTA
What should I buy to insure the stability of the dish? Should I use the mover's connection, find sidework from a reputable tech in Sacramento?
Looks like solidsignal is the best for the dish, and one of our fellow forum visitors for the SWM.
Any input is appreciated. I'm now 100% OTA
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
I would recommend not using the weatherproof box. Other users have reported overheating problems with the SWM8 in an enclosed box since it is made to be air cooled and it is fully weatherized.
If you insist on using a box, make sure to drill plenty of ventilation holes.
If you insist on using a box, make sure to drill plenty of ventilation holes.
add a 12VAC source and a fan from a computer case if you want to be perfectly safe (to the box, with the holes)Grentz said:I would recommend not using the weatherproof box. Other users have reported overheating problems with the SWM8 in an enclosed box since it is made to be air cooled and it is fully weatherized.
If you insist on using a box, make sure to drill plenty of ventilation holes.
I work in the Sac area and can tell you that only few of the techs have even been giving any training in the SWM. If I came out to your house and you gave me the SWM equipment to install I would have to tell you that I cant do it and you will have to call to reschedule through our local office. Good news is that supposedly October is the national roll out for the SWM and every one will get the training.
The outside corners are 2x4s, the sides or that mass produced 1/4-1/2" thick wood siding (the sheets that look like planks) and I'd assume the inside frame is only on the corners and are additional 2x4s. Very similar to this:curt8403 said:how thick is the wood, what kind of wood (Plywood or solid)
http://mlsmedia.metrolistmls.com/bigphoto/018/80092718.jpg low res sorry.
If the SWM will handle the elements, I will just mount it under the eve. relying on fans to keep it cool sounds more risky than the rain.
Looks like I will undertake the install myself, as D* has no available appts until mid-late October. yikes!
EDIT: Can I ground to the metal fireplace flume? If it's not desirable (or maybe legal?) is it better than none?
For the type chimney you describe, the only substantial structure exists at the four corners. The covering material inbetween will barely support itself certainly not the dish. Use pressure treated 2x4s or 2x6s fastened from one corner to the other corner lug bolted into the 2x4s as the support for your dish. Attempting to support the dish on the facade material between the corners will not work.
What he said.eakes said:For the type chimney you describe, the only substantial structure exists at the four corners. The covering material inbetween will barely support itself certainly not the dish. Use pressure treated 2x4s or 2x6s fastened from one corner to the other corner lug bolted into the 2x4s as the support for your dish. Attempting to support the dish on the facade material between the corners will not work.
No. Just because it's metal doesn't mean its a ground source. Have an electrician put a ground rod in if need be.premio said:EDIT: Can I ground to the metal fireplace flume? If it's not desirable (or maybe legal?) is it better than none?
Some more questions for the group.
I decided to mount to the chimney in the center of one of the sides. I reinforced the corners with new 2x4 pressure treated lumbar, and ran 2 2x4 braces across the center. I nailed and lag bolted the corners together and then nailed and lag bolted the braces. I bolted the dish mount to the braces (3 on each).
I have two monopoles going back up to the stronger top of the chimney. They are in a great spot to add support for wind, but I'm thinking I should have moved these to below the dish surface instead of mostly parralel with it?
The AT9 looks HUGE up there compared to the neighbors slimline, and I'm considering spending $100 and putting the slimline instead. It feels very sturdy and by far more stable than the 5 lagbolts that used to keep it mounted directly to my shake roof.
I also mounted the swm outside under the dish. There are four inputs to it, but my AT9 has only 3 wires coming from the LNB? Do you reccomend tuning with the SWM conected, or tuning without?
Thanks
I decided to mount to the chimney in the center of one of the sides. I reinforced the corners with new 2x4 pressure treated lumbar, and ran 2 2x4 braces across the center. I nailed and lag bolted the corners together and then nailed and lag bolted the braces. I bolted the dish mount to the braces (3 on each).
I have two monopoles going back up to the stronger top of the chimney. They are in a great spot to add support for wind, but I'm thinking I should have moved these to below the dish surface instead of mostly parralel with it?
The AT9 looks HUGE up there compared to the neighbors slimline, and I'm considering spending $100 and putting the slimline instead. It feels very sturdy and by far more stable than the 5 lagbolts that used to keep it mounted directly to my shake roof.
I also mounted the swm outside under the dish. There are four inputs to it, but my AT9 has only 3 wires coming from the LNB? Do you reccomend tuning with the SWM conected, or tuning without?
Thanks
NE1? I should have time this weekend to get back on the roof.premio said:Some more questions for the group.
I decided to mount to the chimney in the center of one of the sides. I reinforced the corners with new 2x4 pressure treated lumbar, and ran 2 2x4 braces across the center. I nailed and lag bolted the corners together and then nailed and lag bolted the braces. I bolted the dish mount to the braces (3 on each).
I have two monopoles going back up to the stronger top of the chimney. They are in a great spot to add support for wind, but I'm thinking I should have moved these to below the dish surface instead of mostly parralel with it?
The AT9 looks HUGE up there compared to the neighbors slimline, and I'm considering spending $100 and putting the slimline instead. It feels very sturdy and by far more stable than the 5 lagbolts that used to keep it mounted directly to my shake roof.
I also mounted the swm outside under the dish. There are four inputs to it, but my AT9 has only 3 wires coming from the LNB? Do you reccomend tuning with the SWM conected, or tuning without?
Thanks
thanks
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
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