I attached 3 antennas to a DP34. The switch is attached to a VIP211. After making all the connections, I did a 'check switch', it went through all 38 steps and all was fine - for an hour. Now, the receiver doesn't see the switch at all. I connected one of the antennas directly to the receiver and it worked perfectly. I also tried unplugging the receiver and starting from scratch, but it still does not see the switch. Next, I tried connecting only one antenna to the switch, but the results were the same. Any help out there?
Receiver doesn't see DP34 switch
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You had it right in your title: the receiver doesn't see the switch. You should get a "0 of 3" count-up when the receiver is connected to a 34 switch. If you don't, it usually means the switch is bad, which sounds like the case here.
"0 of 38" means that you're either connected to legacy equipment, or that no switch was detected. Legacy equipment can't do the 2-way communication that DishPro/DPPlus equipment can, so each possible config has to be tested.
"0 of 38" means that you're either connected to legacy equipment, or that no switch was detected. Legacy equipment can't do the 2-way communication that DishPro/DPPlus equipment can, so each possible config has to be tested.
In another post you were questioning using 3 DP LNBs and a 211 receiver I assume that is the setup you are still trying to get working.. Are you sure the LNBs are DP, in this post you say the 211 ran 38 tests and when you tried a single LNB it worked correctly. 38 Tests should have set the receiver for Legacy equipment that uses voltage switching 12/18V. Dish Pro uses only 18 Volts so I wonder if you really have DP LNBs.blooker68 said:
Received a suggestion from a long time installer. His thinking is 3 LNB's combined with a long cable run are killing the DP34's. He suggested I use a second receiver to act soley as a power supply so as to provide sufficient current. I have an old 4500 sitting around and will use that and see what happens.
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A 4500 won't help; it is a legacy receiver with a weak power supply, and won't work with a DP34 without a DP Adapter (i.e., a power inserter).
How long are the runs to the LNBs?
BTW, DP34s are quite reliable as long as they aren't left in the heat or filled with water. The mistake is that many installers put them right next to the dish to make their cable runs easier. The switch should be installed in a more sheltered location, installed with the proper orientation so that no connectors face up, and the plastic caps left on all unused ports.
How long are the runs to the LNBs?
BTW, DP34s are quite reliable as long as they aren't left in the heat or filled with water. The mistake is that many installers put them right next to the dish to make their cable runs easier. The switch should be installed in a more sheltered location, installed with the proper orientation so that no connectors face up, and the plastic caps left on all unused ports.
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Those distances aren't the problem. You've got a bad switch, or a bad cable run/bad connector. If you want to test the cable, the easiest tool is a Pocket Toner. It's basically a battery and a speaker. One component goes on each end, and if the cable/connectors are good, it should pass power and ring the speaker.
http://www.summitsource.com/product_info.php?ref=1&products_id=5733
http://www.summitsource.com/product_info.php?ref=1&products_id=5733
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No. If you can connect the cable run to an LNB and get signal, the run is fine.
The best thing to do is try to get Dish to replace your switch with a DPP44 powered switch or buy one and install it your self. The power inserter needs to go behind whatever receiver is hooked to the #-1 port on the switch. When they put my HD in that is what i got and my signal levels are much more stable.
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