[mikefeuer]

My new neighbors got a nice install yesterday with a wall bracket. I went over to speak to the installer, and he told me they started using them recently. Mine is shown installed on the fascia.

Mine is tucked away nicely in my front courtyard out of view. While I would like the wall mount it would make it more obvious, but I'm thinking it's going to do better in a hurricane. Depending on the storm, of course nothing is going to do well.

Does anyone have any thoughts on these different installations, and would anyone guess at what Directv would charge me to come out and remount ?

Thank you.

 

[armophob]

The wall mount is basically what I did using 2 standard 45 arms connected together. Good windstorm will rock that fascia right off.

See post #2 here.

 

[mikefeuer]

The wall mount is basically what I did using 2 standard 45 arms connected together. Good windstorm will rock that fascia right off.

See post #2 here.

Many thanks for your reply and the link. That looks great, very secure. I would like that. I was not given any options 2-1/2 years ago, and now I'm concerned that the stronger installation would allow it to be seen from the front of the house (HOA). I'm on a corner of a cul de sac and still think it's better than everyone being able to see it on the passing street or from the back of the house. Thanks again.

I'll have to find out about a 're-install' fee.

 

[Mike500]

If at least two three inch screws are driven into the facia and the rafter tail, and the mounts of the two adjacent monopole feet are mounted with at least two inch lag screws into the ajacent rafters, you are as secure as any wall mount like the one your neighbor has.

 

[raoul5788]

If at least two three inch screws are driven into the facia and the rafter tail, and the mounts of the two adjacent monopole feet are mounted with at least two inch lag screws into the ajacent rafters, you are as secure as any wall mount like the one your neighbor has.

I disagree completely. From a building point of view, even though it is a thicker than normal fascia, it is a fascia. By that I mean it is not very securely affixed to the rafter tails. Plus the rafter tails by nature will skew eventually. If you were pointing an ota antenna it would be no issue, but those sats are 22,500 miles away. With the difficulty of aligning a ka signal, you want the most secure base you can get.

 

[Mike500]

I disagree completely. From a building point of view, even though it is a thicker than normal fascia, it is a fascia. By that I mean it is not very securely affixed to the rafter tails. Plus the rafter tails by nature will skew eventually. If you were pointing an ota antenna it would be no issue, but those sats are 22,500 miles away. With the difficulty of aligning a ka signal, you want the most secure base you can get.

As one who is experenced in structual engineering, I know that I can make that mount on the facia as strong as or even stronger than that mpint with the foot on the wall. Just because you can't do it, it doesn't mean that it can't be done.

 

[Mertzen]

How about moisture seeping in though?

 

[raoul5788]

As one who is experenced in structual engineering, I know that I can make that mount on the facia as strong as or even stronger than that mpint with the foot on the wall. Just because you can't do it, it doesn't mean that it can't be done.

I didn't say I couldn't do it, or that you couldn't, for that matter. I also won't go into comparing my experience in building with yours. That isn't the issue. My comments were to the op, and I stand by them.

 

[BattleZone]

I've seen more than one dish sitting on the ground, with a nice 6x10" hole in the stucco wall where it used to be. I guarentee you that most techs aren't going to be able to find the stud behind the stucco (most won't even look), so all you've got securing the dish is 3/4" of stucco and some chicken wire.

I would leave the dish on the fascia, especially THAT fascia.

 

[Mike500]

I've seen more than one dish sitting on the ground, with a nice 6x10" hole in the stucco wall where it used to be. I guarentee you that most techs aren't going to be able to find the stud behind the stucco (most won't even look), so all you've got securing the dish is 3/4" of stucco and some chicken wire.

I would leave the dish on the fascia, especially THAT fascia.

Well said.... I'll with you. Just because stucco liiks like it's strong, does not mean that it is. Long screws into three 2x6 rafters is definitely stronger than two long screws into one 2x4 stud in a wall, with the four corner screws of the mounting foot into crumbly "plaster" and "chickenwire."

 

[Birdman79]

White cable shouldn't be used outside,I've ran into tons of repeat service calls caused by worn out white cable in which moisture gets into it corroding fittings,ground blocks,and switches.I don't believe it has any uv protection.

 

[Mike500]

White cable shouldn't be used outside,I've ran into tons of repeat service calls caused by worn out white cable in which moisture gets into it corroding fittings,ground blocks,and switches.I don't believe it has any uv protection.

That might have been true 15 years ago.

Carbon black might be the cheapest UV inhibitor that has been out there, since the early days of Bakelite and natural rubber tires.

UV inhibitors in vinyl siding and NEMA approved and UL and ETL grey conduit has a design life of over 25 years. Some vinyl sidings have a lfietime warranty.

UV inhibitors have been improved in the past 10 years. White cable is often used in the South, West and Southwest. Just be sure that it bears the UL, CSA or UL label.

 

[mgtr]

You folks seem to have missed that the OP is in Florida, which means that the stucco is almost certainly over concrete block. That is a lot stronger than a 2x4 wall with stucco over styrofoam. I have a slimline mounted into such stucco in Florida, and I could do chinups on it (if I could do chinups).

 

[davring]

You folks seem to have missed that the OP is in Florida, which means that the stucco is almost certainly over concrete block. That is a lot stronger than a 2x4 wall with stucco over styrofoam. I have a slimline mounted into such stucco in Florida, and I could do chinups on it (if I could do chinups).

Ditto....

I have many heavy Tapcons in the base and mono-poles, I could probably hang an engine hoist from it. Previous dish, with the same mounting, did fine with huricane Wilma.

 

[Mike500]

Still, I would in a situation, such as yours, and especially if the rafters are open to access under the roof, I would get "hurricane" type galvanized steel brackets from Home Depot or Lowes, and reinforce the connections between the rafters, the facia and the tip of the wall.

This is an easy "do-it-yourself" job, since you do not move the dish or the mount.

 

[kevinm34232]

The "Under Eave Mount" shown above is used on houses with tile roofs or where the customer is dead set against the dish on the roof. I've done quite a few of these since Im in FL and there are plenty of tile roofs around.
To be done right, you'll need to drill 6 holes (1/2") in the concrete block and use 5/16" lag sleeves and lag bolts. I've seen tapcons used but wouldn't trust them with that heavy mount and dish.
Usually you can lag the monopoles into the fascia even if there's a gutter. All in all it's very strong when done.

 

[thespaceghost]

As one who is experenced in structual engineering, I know that I can make that mount on the facia as strong as or even stronger than that mpint with the foot on the wall. Just because you can't do it, it doesn't mean that it can't be done.

structual engineer or not, the fact remains most facia boards are simply slapped up and held together by a few nails, regardless of size. Not only will that setup eventually become a service call, but the dish is also causing stress on that facia board. From the pics, there appears to be no support for several feet.

Secondly, there are no lag bolts on the lower end of the mast. When the wind blows from behind the dish, it will constantly rock it, weakening the upper end of the mast.

 

[raoul5788]

structual engineer or not, the fact remains most facia boards are simply slapped up and held together by a few nails, regardless of size. Not only will that setup eventually become a service call, but the dish is also causing stress on that facia board. From the pics, there appears to be no support for several feet.

Secondly, there are no lag bolts on the lower end of the mast. When the wind blows from behind the dish, it will constantly rock it, weakening the upper end of the mast.

This is exactly my point, Spaceghost. BTW, I loved your cartoon show! :lol: :lol:

 

[Birdman79]

That might have been true 15 years ago.

Carbon black might be the cheapest UV inhibitor that has been out there, since the early days of Bakelite and natural rubber tires.

UV inhibitors in vinyl siding and NEMA approved and UL and ETL grey conduit has a design life of over 25 years. Some vinyl sidings have a lfietime warranty.

UV inhibitors have been improved in the past 10 years. White cable is often used in the South, West and Southwest. Just be sure that it bears the UL, CSA or UL label.

I know 3-4 service calls that had that problem ,the installation was any where from 2-3 yrs old.I could say that a high percent of the jobs that i roll too wired with white coax there's a cut or scrape in it.And a lot of 'em don't look like it's been installed a long time ago either.

 

[Grydlok]

I know 3-4 service calls that had that problem ,the installation was any where from 2-3 yrs old.I could say that a high percent of the jobs that i roll too wired with white coax there's a cut or scrape in it.And a lot of 'em don't look like it's been installed a long time ago either.

I take it you never been to Florida.
They do make dual white cable that is UL approved.