rg6 and rg11 ends screw onto the same connectors.. you just need the right ends for the cable type..babzog said:
RG-11 to RG-6
Hey folks,
Further to my tower project, I came across a thread discussing cable lengths and was wondering about my own plans.
I'll have about 130 or so feet in my run.. plus whatever is in the house for distribution. There'll be about 10' at the tower, 85-90' underground in conduit and another 20' to 30' to the wiring panel. In the house will be 10' (eventually up to 30') runs.
First off, is it worth it to replace the underground segment with RG-11? Second, if I do, is there such a thing as an RG-11 to RG-6 converter/grounding block? I've poked around a bit and all I've turned up are dictionary definitions of each standard.
Further to my tower project, I came across a thread discussing cable lengths and was wondering about my own plans.
I'll have about 130 or so feet in my run.. plus whatever is in the house for distribution. There'll be about 10' at the tower, 85-90' underground in conduit and another 20' to 30' to the wiring panel. In the house will be 10' (eventually up to 30') runs.
First off, is it worth it to replace the underground segment with RG-11? Second, if I do, is there such a thing as an RG-11 to RG-6 converter/grounding block? I've poked around a bit and all I've turned up are dictionary definitions of each standard.
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Oh. LOL. I guess that's why my search turned up nothing.houskamp said:rg6 and rg11 ends screw onto the same connectors.. you just need the right ends for the cable type..
So, I just need the right compression fittings and they will then screw right on to my grounding blocks?
correct..babzog said:Oh. LOL. I guess that's why my search turned up nothing.
If you put a signal locker right where the cable enters the house, you should be fine if the RG6 is good stuff. Or a powered switch, like a WB616.babzog said:Hey folks,
Further to my tower project, I came across a thread discussing cable lengths and was wondering about my own plans.
I'll have about 130 or so feet in my run.. plus whatever is in the house for distribution. There'll be about 10' at the tower, 85-90' underground in conduit and another 20' to 30' to the wiring panel. In the house will be 10' (eventually up to 30') runs.
First off, is it worth it to replace the underground segment with RG-11? Second, if I do, is there such a thing as an RG-11 to RG-6 converter/grounding block? I've poked around a bit and all I've turned up are dictionary definitions of each standard.
Cheers,
Tom
No need to replace. I've seen much longer runs then those work just fine.
Sorry... I meant replace, as in, replace within my plans. I have yet to install the conduit (that's this Sunday, assuming the rain holds off).Mertzen said:No need to replace. I've seen much longer runs then those work just fine.
How well will a run of 130' (potentially up to 150') handle rain/snow fade?
I've been doing some browsing in the on line Belden catalog and a few other sources, and it looks like you'll save 2.5 to 3.0 dB over 130' by going with RG-11 as opposed to RG-6. I don't know if it's worth the trouble. You might do better with a line amp if you need one.Mertzen said:No need to replace. I've seen much longer runs then those work just fine.
The total loss for RG-6 (Belden 1829AC) over 130' at 1450 MHz will be just over 10 dB. If you could get some more advice from installers, etc., as to whether or not 10 dB is too much that would be helpful.
RG-11 is expensive and the connectors are a pain to install (at least in my opinion).
What is a "signal locker"? Is it like this gizmo?Tom Robertson said:If you put a signal locker right where the cable enters the house, you should be fine if the RG6 is good stuff. Or a powered switch, like a WB616.
Cheers,
Tom
I haven't forgotten the suggestion in the tower thread about the powered switch. Do powered switches also act as signal amplifiers?
Adding RG11 to the circuit will have no effect whatsoever on the dish's ability to grab a signal.babzog said:How well will a run of 130' (potentially up to 150') handle rain/snow fade?
The motivation to use RG11 is primarily its much greater capacity to keep the DC voltage level up all the way to the LNB assembly.
Rain and snow attenuation and depolarization degrade the C/N and C/I ratios and overall level. Coax loss by itself will not degrade the C/N, because it attenuates the carrier and noise equally. What causes problems is the noise in a line amp or receiver input stage, which adds to the N and becomes significant if the coax loss is too great. 10 dB of coax loss is probably OK.babzog said:How well will a run of 130' (potentially up to 150') handle rain/snow fade?
It's the overall level you must worry about (carrier plus noise). If it drops too low you'll lose your signal. A line amp installed at the half way point will help. I just don't know if it's necessary.
That is the signal locker. Neither the signal locker, nor powered multiswitch, amplify the signal level, but as others have noted for your cable lengths, signal levels will not be an issue. If you have an issue (and probably won't at your lengths) it will be DC voltage drop from receiver to dish. The signal locker, or a powered multiswitch, part way along the way will resolve that.babzog said:What is a "signal locker"? Is it like this gizmo?
I haven't forgotten the suggestion in the tower thread about the powered switch. Do powered switches also act as signal amplifiers?
Carl
A signal locker does amplify, I don't think most powered switches do. And that is exactly the gizmo I had in mind. Several people have said good things about that unit.
In my house I've had an unpowered switch at the midpoint of 150-170' runs work ok. A powered switch or signal locker seems to work slightly better; I think because all the LNBs have full power all the time with less DC voltage worries.
I suggested a signal locker as it can usually be tucked nicely somewhere near the entry point, then run the cables to your wiring panel. And I was being conservative. For long runs I like either powered switches or signal lockers, yet you very well might do fine with nothing special inline.
Cheers,
Tom
In my house I've had an unpowered switch at the midpoint of 150-170' runs work ok. A powered switch or signal locker seems to work slightly better; I think because all the LNBs have full power all the time with less DC voltage worries.
I suggested a signal locker as it can usually be tucked nicely somewhere near the entry point, then run the cables to your wiring panel. And I was being conservative. For long runs I like either powered switches or signal lockers, yet you very well might do fine with nothing special inline.
Cheers,
Tom
babzog said:What is a "signal locker"? Is it like this gizmo?
I haven't forgotten the suggestion in the tower thread about the powered switch. Do powered switches also act as signal amplifiers?
A signal locker does not amplify. It merely powers the dish and takes the load off of the receivers. It allows for longer runs, but does not amplify the signal.
Taken from the product page
Taken from the product page
RELATED CONSIDERATIONS
Splitting the signal results in signal loss. Splitters
must be rated to 2300 MHz. Model LA142a
line amplifi ers are recommended between the
HRPID1422 and AT9 dish for drop distances of
more than 250 feet from receiver to dish
Okay, all good stuff! Thank you for making up my mind regarding the rg6/rg11... I will go with rg6.
Is flooded cable required or not really (thinking that non-flooded cable might degrade if the conduit gets filled with water)?
What do you suggest for cable to be buried in conduit? I've been peering at the Belden 7916A, the Perfect Vision cable from solidsignal and the quad shield, SC cables from skywalker (either their signature series or the pro-gear)?
Even considering going the dual coax route. I don't think it'll be a challenge to pull through the conduit and the 500' spool is plenty for my needs (and it'll look neater too, where exposed) (but it seems to me that dual quad-sheild is pretty rare).
Is flooded cable required or not really (thinking that non-flooded cable might degrade if the conduit gets filled with water)?
What do you suggest for cable to be buried in conduit? I've been peering at the Belden 7916A, the Perfect Vision cable from solidsignal and the quad shield, SC cables from skywalker (either their signature series or the pro-gear)?
Even considering going the dual coax route. I don't think it'll be a challenge to pull through the conduit and the 500' spool is plenty for my needs (and it'll look neater too, where exposed) (but it seems to me that dual quad-sheild is pretty rare).
underground in conduit is considered a wet location.babzog said:Okay, all good stuff! Thank you for making up my mind regarding the rg6/rg11... I will go with rg6.
Is flooded cable required or not really (thinking that non-flooded cable might degrade if the conduit gets filled with water)?
What do you suggest for cable to be buried in conduit? I've been peering at the Belden 7916A, the Perfect Vision cable from solidsignal and the quad shield, SC cables from skywalker (either their signature series or the pro-gear)?
Even considering going the dual coax route. I don't think it'll be a challenge to pull through the conduit and the 500' spool is plenty for my needs (and it'll look neater too, where exposed) (but it seems to me that dual quad-sheild is pretty rare).
But.. does that then require flooded cable or is regular outdoor coax okay? It's not going to be subjected to forces that will cut or nick the outer coating... but will the water in the conduit degrade the coating?brant said:underground in conduit is considered a wet location.
Well,if you're using PVC conduit, it certainly can be made waterproof. Need to be very careful and clean when gluing connections, and, of course, protect both ends of the run from weather. You can also get a friendly plumber to help with pressure testing, which is common practice with new water lines.
Alternative approach, lay conduit on a slope for drainage and add a drain plug. Make as watertight as possible and you have the drain plug to check your work. If problem, open drain, and drip dry. Or compressed air.
Alternative approach, lay conduit on a slope for drainage and add a drain plug. Make as watertight as possible and you have the drain plug to check your work. If problem, open drain, and drip dry. Or compressed air.
Correct. Further, a powered switch IS a signal locker, and is NOT an amplifier either.Teronzhul said:A signal locker does not amplify. It merely powers the dish and takes the load off of the receivers. It allows for longer runs, but does not amplify the signal.
Generally, cable length restrictions are due to DC switching issues, and not because of low satellite signal. The resistance of long cable lines will lower line voltage enough to prevent the multiswitch switching long before the receiver will run out of signal. That's why signal lockers are fairly common but amplifiers are not.
underground= still wet location, even sloped or drained or whatever you want to do to it.2dogz said:Well,if you're using PVC conduit, it certainly can be made waterproof. Need to be very careful and clean when gluing connections, and, of course, protect both ends of the run from weather. You can also get a friendly plumber to help with pressure testing, which is common practice with new water lines.
Alternative approach, lay conduit on a slope for drainage and add a drain plug. Make as watertight as possible and you have the drain plug to check your work. If problem, open drain, and drip dry. Or compressed air.
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
- This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
DBSTalk Forum
A forum community dedicated to digital bit streaming enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about programming, content, and reception, home theaters, displays, models, styles, satellites, reviews, accessories, classifieds, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Recommended Communities
