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I recently installed an AU9-S (Slimline, 5 lnb) dish. The dish is about 150 feet from the house and is connected by underground coaxial cable. I aligned the dish by bringing a TV and receiver out to the dish location. At this point the receiver was plugged directly to the satellite with about 10 feet of cable. I got it aligned with signal strengths between 88 and 95 for each satellite. All the channels came in fine when the receiver was connected with about 10 feet of cable. However, when I connected the receiver inside the house, with about 150 feet of underground coaxial cable between the receiver and the satellite, only a few of the channels were working. Channels from certain satellites (those carrying local channels and HBO channels) weren't working even though the signal strengths from those satellites were between 88 and 95. Why would certain channels come in just fine when the receiver is connected at the dish, but not work when the receiver is connected in the house? What can I try to fix the situation?

Prior to connecting the AU9-S, I had a standard definition 3 lnb satellite connected that always worked fine.
 

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Post your signal strengths on satellite 99c and 103ca. If there is enough voltage drop in the cable, the LNB will not get enough power to operate correctly. If that is indeed the problem, you might be able to use RG11 coax, which has much lower loss.
 

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Is this a SWiM or legacy system?

150' of "good" RG6 can work with a SWiM, but it pushing it for a legacy LNB.

RF loss is about 15 dB, but more important is the voltage at the LNB.

Solid copper core RG6, or copper clad steel?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Replacing the cable would be a last ditch option. It's solid copper core RG6 on a legacy LNB. Is there any sort of power amplifier to correct for the voltage drop off in order to help power the LNB?
 

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kenten05 said:
Replacing the cable would be a last ditch option. It's solid copper core RG6 on a legacy LNB. Is there any sort of power amplifier to correct for the voltage drop off in order to help power the LNB?
Best bet would be to replace the LNB with an SWM LNB, and put the power inserter as close to the dish as possible (where the cable enters the house).
 

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kenten05 said:
I can't use a power inserter with a non-SWM LNB? I only have one receiver so I don't need to split the cable.
You could get a signal locker which would do about the same thing, but I think it would cost more money. An SWM LNB would be the cheaper alternative, and keep you up to date with current tech.
 

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How many receivers/DVRs are you wanting to feed? Do you have 4 coax in your run from the dish? If you do, you can try putting a Sonora phase locker/power inserter right where the coax reach your house, then feed a WB68 multiswitch. That should take care of the voltage drop issue (150 feet isn't that long, it should work).

As Davenlr suggested, post your signal levels for all transponders on all satellites. That way we can do a better job of figuring out what might be going on. For example, if you are missing lots of even transponders, then it's almost certainly a voltage drop problem. But if the even transponders are generally good, there may be some other problem.

Another option might be to use an SWM8 multiswitch at the house end of the 150' coax run, then use single-coax feeds to your equipment. Because the SWM8 is powered, that would accomplish much the same as the Sonora would.
 

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kenten05 said:
Also, I was unaware that I needed to buy a new LNB to use the SWM switch. Are there anything switch set-ups that work with the original LNBs?
The SWM switch is built into the SWMLNB. To get SWM from a standard LNB would require 4 coax runs from the LNB to an SWM multiswitch at your house.

The reason I suggest the SWMLNB, is because it has better electronics, and functions much better with long coax runs due to its design.
 

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kenten05 said:
Here's what I'm looking at: http://www.wiredathome.com/sonora-4satpl-t-directv-slimline-ku-ka-polarity-locker-power-inserter/

Or something like this: http://www.weaknees.com/swm-directv.php

On top of what's listed above, do I actually need to to replace the LNBs that are on the dish?
"The DIRECTV® (4) polarity SLSP-F SlimLine® dish with SL5 LNB to receiver distance exceeds 100 feet" That is 50' less than you are trying to run.

The second would work, but requires 4 cables from the dish to it.
 
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