DBSTalk Forum banner
1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have the Hopper and 2 Joey system. The solo node 185834 was installed 7 or 8 years ago and would like to swap it for a new one just for giggles. After I swap will there be any new programming involved like going into settings and do a switch test? Or will it just reconnect as usual like a splitter would.

Thanks,
the new guy
 

·
Beware the Attack Basset
Joined
·
23,902 Posts
I have the Hopper and 2 Joey system. The solo node 185834 was installed 7 or 8 years ago and would like to swap it for a new one just for giggles.
If you've got money to burn, there's much better places to throw it.
After I swap will there be any new programming involved like going into settings and do a switch test? Or will it just reconnect as usual like a splitter would.
The Solo Node is a passive device. Nothing in the system will notice any difference.

Is there anything that you think this replacement might solve (other than an overstuffed wallet)?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well I replaced all the 15 yr old cabling that runs under house from node to the units inside with new RG6. Since i'm retired and have a fat wallet thought i'd swap everything else. Just for giggles you see:)
Thanks for response.

Milton wrote Paradise Lost. Then his wife left him and he wrote Paradise Found.
 

·
Hall Of Fame
Joined
·
3,972 Posts
The node is a passive device that either works or fails. If your system is working - "if it ain't broke don't fix it."
 
  • Like
Reactions: WestDC

·
Beware the Attack Basset
Joined
·
23,902 Posts
I was going to suggest having the old node electroplated in chrome or gold but that may cook some of the internal components.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
According to Stephen Hawking, electroplating a Dish Solo Node in gold will cause the earths core to stop spinning. Not being one to wipe out humanity, I'll just leave said node be for now.
But still being in swap out mode, I think I"ll swap the splitter and intergrator on the client side. Just because I can...

Thanks for responding.
 

·
Beware the Attack Basset
Joined
·
23,902 Posts
If you can't get rid of your money fast enough, there are many worthwhile charities that would be happy to take it off of your hands and you might even get public recognition for it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Charities I give. Recognition I don't want. What I do want is a crystal clear picture on my Samsung 52 incher.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
53,146 Posts
Your money your choice ... don't let anyone tell you otherwise.
 

·
Beware the Attack Basset
Joined
·
23,902 Posts
What I do want is a crystal clear picture on my Samsung 52 incher.
Changing out the node isn't going to have any impact on the picture. There are very few incremental improvements in digital television -- it either works or it doesn't for the most part.

Changing out the old TV for something more recent has a much better chance of improving your viewing experience. The processing in modern TVs has improved leaps and bounds over early HD efforts. Modern TVs are brighter and sharper and a 55" TV will typically fit in the same space.

The only drawback comes if you have source equipment that features component or S-video as support for those connections is mostly gone.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
yea, I realize all the node does basically is transfer programming from the hopper to the joeys. As I said I'll leave it be. Tv is a year old. last few months the pic was getting just a little grainy. I swapped out the rg6 and that helped a lot. Pic is almost as good as when i got it. I'm gonna swap out splitter and regulator anyway. Checked all the compression F connectors and they are good. dielectrics are good and no rust on stingers. I do know how to re-terminate if I have to. No components hooked up to tv.
 

·
Beware the Attack Basset
Joined
·
23,902 Posts
Tv is a year old.
Oh! Sorry. I was under the impression that Samsung only offered 52" TVs in 2009.
last few months the pic was getting just a little grainy.
Grainy is not something you should expect from a Hopper system. Fuzziness, graininess or ghosting aren't in the dictionary for digital video. It is either a good picture or a broken up picture.

If the digital video feed to or from DISH is grainy, no amount of time and money invested in hardware changes on your end is going to address that. The quick diagnostic here is to compare the picture coming out of the Hopper with that of the Joeys. If you see the issue on the Joeys but not the Hopper, there may be a problem in your setup (but it probably isn't the cabling). If the picture on the Hopper exhibits the grain, the Joey's can't be any better and the problem almost certainly rests with DISH (or their source).

The node and splitter are passive devices (think pipe tee) that carry network packets between the Hopper and the Joeys. The content of those network packets is digitally encoded video streaming data and it either makes the trip or it doesn't. When it doesn't, there is either something that looks like a sparkle or a tear in the image. It is impossible for this encoded data to be infused with grain by accident.

This is what a marginal digital video signal might look like:
Ecoregion Grass Urban design Landscape Screenshot


The picture is from a drone camera that is getting too far away from its receiver. Notice that the resultant video comes through as corrupt rectangles rather than something like grain for fuzz.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
My bad....TV is 50"....Samsung 50" smart Tizen TV. I kept the box...lol. The picture on the joey TV's look fine as they always have( 2 -36" sonys). Just a tinge of grain on the samsung. The new rg6 definitely helped though. The cable from the dish to node is rated 3ghz. The new cable I ran from node to units is 2.8ghz. Should that have been 3ghz also? Got the cable from local HD. I'll give Dish a call if all else fails.
 

·
Beware the Attack Basset
Joined
·
23,902 Posts
The Joeys operate in the 750MHz range +/- 100MHz. Pretty much any old 75 ohm, properly terminated coaxial cable will do.

The fact that the problem manifests only in the Hopper connected TV tells us that the network between the Hopper and the Joeys is just fine. The only thing that's in question is the Hopper/Samsung combo. Have you swapped out the HDMI cable to the TV as part of your sparky efforts?

Is there anything in line between the Hopper and the Samsung like a sound bar or an AVR? An old AVR or video processor that is trying to tinker with the Hopper output (i.e. upconversion) could cause some degradation.

Eliminating the gremlins that can't be in play will almost always save you resources.

You can eliminate the Hopper by connecting a Sony directly to it. Similarly, you could eliminate the Samsung by connecting a Joey directly to it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Well shiver me timbers, the culprit was the HDMI cable. I completely overlooked that. I had a new one on hand and now am grain free........thank you sir.
 

·
Beware the Attack Basset
Joined
·
23,902 Posts
Well shiver me timbers, the culprit was the HDMI cable. I completely overlooked that. I had a new one on hand and now am grain free........thank you sir.
You're welcome. It is so much easier when you identify what the problem isn't.
 

·
Beware the Attack Basset
Joined
·
23,902 Posts
It would be much easy if you understand how all parts working together and separately
Most have absolutely no interest in what goes into the sausage and there's nothing wrong with that.

My approach here was pretty much black box. Knowing the details of what goes on inside the devices or wires didn't really come into play (other than the coax suitability question).

Engineers often don't make for great technicians because they want to learn everything about a problem.
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top