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Switching an activated outlet

19K views 14 replies 4 participants last post by  bigglebowski 
#1 ·
Hi guys,

I currently have two cable outlets in my bedroom, on opposite walls. I recently rearranged the room, and the TV ended up going from one outlet to the other. However as I now realize, the outlet my TV is now in front of is not activated.

I would rather not run a 30' cable across my room to the working outlet. I called DirecTV and they want $50 to come out and activate this new outlet. I would really rather not pay this, and was hoping there might be something I can do myself instead.

I come to you guys, hoping there may be a way to switch the lines, excuse my ignorance when it comes to the terminology. Anyway, thanks for listening, and I look forward to any and all help!
 
#2 ·
If you have an SWM system, or a legacy system with a multiswitch AND the other end of the cable from the dead outlet is in the same location as the SWM splitter or multiswitch...

you just need to disconnect the cable going to the active outlet, and connect the cable going to the outlet you want. If you need to add coax, you can do so with an inline coupler. If the cable to the active outlet is directly connected to your dish by coax that was run in through the wall, you will need to join the coax end of the outlet you want active, to the terminal on the dish where the current outlet is connected, by adding coax and routing it to the dish.
 
#3 ·
Davenlr said:
If you have an SWM system, or a legacy system with a multiswitch AND the other end of the cable from the dead outlet is in the same location as the SWM splitter or multiswitch...

you just need to disconnect the cable going to the active outlet, and connect the cable going to the outlet you want. If you need to add coax, you can do so with an inline coupler. If the cable to the active outlet is directly connected to your dish by coax that was run in through the wall, you will need to join the coax end of the outlet you want active, to the terminal on the dish where the current outlet is connected, by adding coax and routing it to the dish.
How would I determine the type of system I have? The only area I can access easily is on the side of my home. There is a DirecTV box connected to the satellite, and there are several coaxial cables plugged in. It's dark now, but I could find a flashlight and get some information off it if that would help.
 
#4 ·
Hit the "-" key on your remote. If it says SWM connected, it is an SWM system. If not, it is a multiswitch system, and the multiswitch is probably the box on the side of your house. That would be where you need to connect the cable end going to your wanted outlet.
 
#5 ·
Davenlr said:
Hit the "-" key on your remote. If it says SWM connected, it is an SWM system. If not, it is a multiswitch system, and the multiswitch is probably the box on the side of your house. That would be where you need to connect the cable end going to your wanted outlet.
It just gives me a receiver ID number when hit the dash button. I took the face plates off the outlets, but there is no labeling or anything as to which room/outlet it is (they are numbered on the box outside).
 
#6 ·
Well, the easiest way is to connect it to a TV antenna jack. See it it picks up any cable channels. If it does, its still connected to the cable tv system. If you dont get anything (except perhaps some over the air digital stations), then its probably not connected to anything. If you suspect the other end is out by that Directv box, grab a 9V battery and connect it to a short coax jumper and plug it into the outlet. Then go outside with a 12V light bulb or voltmeter, and test any unconnected cables there until you find the one with the 12V on it.

If you dont have any unconnected cables out there, and dont know where the other end of the cable is, you would be better off paying the $50 :)
 
#7 ·
Davenlr said:
Well, the easiest way is to connect it to a TV antenna jack. See it it picks up any cable channels. If it does, its still connected to the cable tv system. If you dont get anything (except perhaps some over the air digital stations), then its probably not connected to anything. If you suspect the other end is out by that Directv box, grab a 9V battery and connect it to a short coax jumper and plug it into the outlet. Then go outside with a 12V light bulb or voltmeter, and test any unconnected cables there until you find the one with the 12V on it.

If you dont have any unconnected cables out there, and dont know where the other end of the cable is, you would be better off paying the $50 :)
I didn't see any cables out there, I think you are right about just having them do it. I might see if I can tolerate a white cable wire along the base boards, if not then I will just suck it up and have it done.

Thanks for the all the help!
 
#9 ·
So while snooping around the attic, I saw two cable lines that run to the bedroom, which leads me to believe both outlets are wired up. After opening up the cable box on the side of the house, there are two extra unconnected wires, without connectors. My assumption is one of these two extra are the other outlet in my room.

My plan now is to hook up my TV to the good outlet, and then unplug each cable wire on the side of the house until that TV is disconnected, which will be my room. Then I will need to buy a couple coaxial ends and try each of the two extra cables until the outlet I want working, works.

Does this plan sound like it may work? Will DirecTV do anything else to actually activate an outlet other than just making sure its connected?
 
#11 ·
Davenlr said:
Sounds like a plan to me. Just remember the receiver outputs 18V of power, so you want to make sure its not shorted out when you plug it into the unknown coax.
I don't want to damage anything... is there any other way to determine which wire that is plugged in to the box on the side of the house is for which room? I didn't see any labeling on the wires, the Zyxel unit just has "outputs" 1-8, and then some 13V and 18V jacks.
 
#12 ·
Just dont short out the center conductor of the coax to anything in the box when you disconnect it and you will be ok.

Just be careful when you plug it back into the switch, the center conductor goes in the hole and doesnt slide to one side and contact the barrel of the connector. You should turn off and unplug all receivers except the one you are trying to isolate during this process to minimize risk.

If you have a volt meter, you can measure the voltage on each coax going into the switch. If only the bedroom receiver is turned on, the coax with that receiver will be the only one that has power on it.
 
#13 ·
Davenlr said:
Just dont short out the center conductor of the coax to anything in the box when you disconnect it and you will be ok.

Just be careful when you plug it back into the switch, the center conductor goes in the hole and doesnt slide to one side and contact the barrel of the connector. You should turn off and unplug all receivers except the one you are trying to isolate during this process to minimize risk.
Ah I see, I will just turn all of them off and then turn on mine only after it is reconnected.
 
#14 ·
Transmaniacon said:
I don't want to damage anything... is there any other way to determine which wire that is plugged in to the box on the side of the house is for which room? I didn't see any labeling on the wires, the Zyxel unit just has "outputs" 1-8, and then some 13V and 18V jacks.
Your method will work , that will be the cheapest way to do it. I you plan on messing with cables and phones and network lines in the future you could buy some cheap toners. you hook up a sender on the bedroom end and hook up a receiver on the other end and it makes a beeping noise when you find the right wire. there are many kinds ranging from 20 bucks to hundred or so.
 
#15 ·
A multimeter is a nice tool to get for this and probably the most useful thing you can buy now that you might have a chance to use for something else in the future. You can even check the wire without putting connectors on each end.

If the cable is in fact not connected you should be able to test it for "open" on the ohm meter setting. Then rig something up on one end where you create a short between the copper center conductor and the braided metal shield just under the jacket of the cable. You can even have a helper on one end to make sure it shorted and you can have them short/open while you confirm that the meter reads short/open as they do it.

If the bedroom side is already has a connector on it inside the wall and is threaded onto the barrel of the wallplate you could attach a terminator on the wall plate and go outside and measure in ohms and be looking for approx 75ohms. Note that the continuity buzzer setting on a meter would not register this and beep as it is looking for a resistance closer to what a short would be which is 0 ohms.
 
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