[skippy76]

Hi,

I have just done an install with slimline dish, swm 3 lnb, 8 port and PI21.

This is connected to an H20.

I have aligned the dish with a digisat 3 meter and an ASL with the PI. I get levels of about 84 on the 101.

When I then connect the set top box and start up I get 0 values on all 101 transponders.

Any thoughts?

 

[skippy76]

Also the signal meter shows 0 too.

I have checked the setup if the dish and it showd a swm 3

 

[peds48]

you are most likely pointed at the wrong satellite.

 

[skippy76]

What is the easiest way to determine that? I have my everything set good tilt, azamuth etc. And have peaked using the digisst III meter.

The only other thing I just thought of is that I used the existing coax from the living room that was previously hooked up to cable. This goes to a wallplate. Would the coupling in the wall plate likely create this issue?

 

[litzdog911]

Is this a known good H20 Receiver? The H20-600 models have significant issues.

Also, if you're just connecting one HD Receiver, you don't need the 8-way splitter. Try bypassing that and connect the H20 directly to the PI's "Out to IRD" port.

 

[r028806]

You also need RG-6 cable that is solid copper core, cable coax is not.

 

[skippy76]

Thanks for the pointers. I know the cable is definetly RG6 from the dish. The cable from the splitter to the set top box appears to be RG6 (solid copper core and thicker than regular coax).

The HR20 is (was) known to be good.

So I guess that leaves me with:

- trying a high frequency coupling to bypass wall plate
- bypassing the splitter by connecting directly into PI IRD connection

 

[jimmie57]

I would bypass the splitter and not use the signal meter.
Most people do not have good luck with the meters and most people are lined up too far to the west.
Try swinging the dish about 20 degrees from where you think it is supposed to be,
then move it very very slowly to the west and have someone reading the signal strength on the TV screen using the 101 satellite.

 

[BobStokesbary]

skippy76,
I know you think you are lined up on 101 because you get a signal from the ASL that makes you think it only passes signals from 101. But, take it from me, you can get peaked on just about any bird with that setup. (I have a similar setup and got really good readings on 110.)

I imagine your dish is on your roof (versus a tripod for my RV setup). This makes it more difficult, but you need to re-verify that you are truly lined up on sat 101. You have to get in a position where you can see the compass and the LNB arm on the dish at the same time. This is tough on a roof. An alternative is to take a dowel and align it with the base of your dish mount and the azimuth on your compass. Tape it in that position so you can see how your LNB arm aligns with the dowel. Once you have that set correctly you will see a reading on your meter. This time you will be set on 101. Move the dish slowly left and right until you get the best reading.

As someone else mentioned, you can also use the receiver which will guarantee you are aligning on 101. But, you will need a friend to call out meter readings for your as you go through the paces, or you can try to activate the tone and turn up the volume. (I am not sure if your receiver will produce a tone. My D12 does, but my HR24s do not.)

Bob

 

[Harold4187]

ok i have the new directv slimline dish.
it has a swm single lnb and a 8 port splitter.
i dont need the splitter i only have 1 tv.

this is for my rv.
i also have a digisat 2 and a digistat 3 meter
will these work to line this up.
i messed with this for hours and no luck so far.

they work great for the 18 round
HELP please

 

[peds48]

ok i have the new directv slimline dish.
it has a swm single lnb and a 8 port splitter.
i dont need the splitter i only have 1 tv.

this is for my rv.
i also have a digisat 2 and a digistat 3 meter
will these work to line this up.
i messed with this for hours and no luck so far.

they work great for the 18 round
HELP please


You would also need a 21v power supply


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[Harold4187]

You would also need a 21v power supply

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i have the 21 volt supply that came with the dish

i proberly dont know how to hook up the meter right

 

[slice1900]

Do those meters do SWM? Older meters may not work with the SL3S dish's SWM output. If that's the case, you might want to get a meter that does SWM, or swap out your SL3S LNB for an SL3.

 

[Harold4187]

that is what i am trying to find out does someone know?
a person sugested using a older lnb to line up then swap out the lnb

 

[peds48]

any meter will work with a SWM LNB, you just need to use a single port power passing splitter to power the LNB


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[veryoldschool]

any meter will work with a SWM LNB, you just need to use a single port power passing splitter to power the LNB

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Without the 2.3 MHz FSK control, how?

 

[Jim1023]

SWM LNBs power up in a test mode (non SWM mode) until connected to either an IRD or an AIM meter. Any of the cheap $20 or less meters will work for the Ku band 101 Sat. A splitter is not needed if you just run the 21 volt power through the meter. However, if the meter has built-in power for the LNB, then the meter needs to be isolated from the power supply with a power passing 2 port splitter. Of course, you never really know what Ku Sat the dish is aimed at.

Jim

 

[BobStokesbary]

There seems to be some real confusion here. Your Digisat 3 meter looks very similar to my Accutrac II meter. It will NOT work on SWM directly. You need to have an ASL 1 between the meter and the satellite dish. It may just be that the primary funciton of this is to offer a point to inject the 21 volts for the SMW head, but according to Accutrac you need to have this for SWM. And too, as Jim notes above you cannot have the receiver connected when you are doing the setup or you will get the SWM activated and then you are only seeing the SWM signal and not the signal from the sat. (It is also possible that -- if Jim is right on the use of a splitter for injecting the 21 volts -- the ASL1 may just be one of the most expensive splitters on the market.)

And, as I can attest from personal experience, it is very easy to get all setup on sat 110 vesus 101 with these less expensive meters. If you have a smart phone please download a compass app to use for the setting. These work off a GPS signal and are not affected by metal. You can get the phone right next to the arm that supports the LNB so you get a good aim. (I use SatFinder which really helps with the aiming.) Bob

 

[veryoldschool]

SWM LNBs power up in a test mode (non SWM mode) until connected to either an IRD or an AIM meter. Any of the cheap $20 or less meters will work for the Ku band 101 Sat. A splitter is not needed if you just run the 21 volt power through the meter. However, if the meter has built-in power for the LNB, then the meter needs to be isolated from the power supply with a power passing 2 port splitter. Of course, you never really know what Ku Sat the dish is aimed at.

Jim

A SWM LNB can't be in "non SWM mode", but it can default to a non AGC mode.
The last time I saw a tech use a Birdog to install my SL3, he used a legacy LNB for alignment and then swapped in the SL3 SWiM.
After he left I retweaked it for the Ka birds as it needed it.

 

[Jim1023]

The ASL-1 is used to isolate the 101 Sat signal from the 119 Sat signal for SL5S (SWM 5 LNB) alignment. The ASL-1 is not needed for the SL3S (SWM 3LNB).

The only reason for swapping non SWM and SWM LNBs is to avoid using the 21 volt power inserter with power passing splitter.

Jim