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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am trying to upgrade my system at the cottage to do whole home DVR with DECA. At home, I have SWM-16 and I thought it would be too much for the cottage. So, I ordered SWM-8, power supply, SWS-8 and DECA. Will the SWM-8 I just got work? I'm planning on HR24, H24 and 2 H25 receivers at the cottage. Please tell me it will otherwise I'd have to send back the SWM-8 and pay more for SWM-16. I do not plan to add any more receivers than the 4 listed.
 

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HDTVFreak07 said:
I am trying to upgrade my system at the cottage to do whole home DVR with DECA. At home, I have SWM-16 and I thought it would be too much for the cottage. So, I ordered SWM-8, power supply, SWS-8 and DECA. Will the SWM-8 I just got work? I'm planning on HR24, H24 and 2 H25 receivers at the cottage. Please tell me it will otherwise I'd have to send back the SWM-8 and pay more for SWM-16. I do not plan to add any more receivers than the 4 listed.
I don't see a problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Well, well, I believe I have broken the multiswitch. First of all, I actually hooked the power inserter into the wrong rf connection. I see on the multiswitch the word "power", which made me thought that was where it was supposed to go. Oops, wrong one. The stuff didn't come with any instruction. That made me so mad. What broke was when I tried to unscrew the cable, it actually unscrew the whole thing out of the multiswitch. I think it broke it. I tried screwing that piece back in but now my receiver is no multiswitch found. :-( Me so sad.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Can someone provide me an illustration on how SWM-8 is supposed to be connected? I have 4 cables coming from the dish. I have power inserter available so I need to know where the PI is supposed to be connected to. I also have what looks like a splitter (believe it is SWS-8). I "may have" broken it by connecting it wrong. I'm reading 771A on my receiver.
 

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The PI can be located inline to the SWM 1 port:
PI(to SWM) -> Red Splitter Output | Splitter Input -> SWM 1

The PI can also be directly connected to the legacy 3 port, with out any receivers inline.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
dielray said:
The PI can be located inline to the SWM 1 port:
PI(to SWM) -> Red Splitter Output | Splitter Input -> SWM 1

The PI can also be directly connected to the legacy 3 port, with out any receivers inline.
So, if I am understanding this correctly, I can use the legacy 3 port to insert the PI? I think I may have damaged the SWM1/PWR when I was trying to disconnect the cable. Are you saying I have another option instead of having to buy a new receiver? And am I supposed to connect the PI's IRD to the splitter?
 

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HDTVFreak07 said:
So, if I am understanding this correctly, I can use the legacy 3 port to insert the PI? I think I may have damaged the SWM1/PWR when I was trying to disconnect the cable. Are you saying I have another option instead of having to buy a new receiver? And am I supposed to connect the PI's IRD to the splitter?
You can plug the PI directly to the Legacy 3 port and run the receivers off SWM 2. The PI would not be going through the splitter in this config. Take the term cap from SWM2 and screw it on SWM1.

I'm a little confused by what you mean regarding replacing the receiver. Do you suspect you damaged the receiver as well? What makes you think you damaged the SWM1 port of the switch?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
dielray said:
You can plug the PI directly to the Legacy 3 port and run the receivers off SWM 2. The PI would not be going through the splitter in this config. Take the term cap from SWM2 and screw it on SWM1.

I'm a little confused by what you mean regarding replacing the receiver. Do you suspect you damaged the receiver as well? What makes you think you damaged the SWM1 port of the switch?
Oops, I meant the SWM-8. I might have damaged it but now I realized I damaged the SWM1/PWR. When I tried to disconnect the cable, the whole thing came out. Is there another option instead of having the SWM-8 replaced?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Finally got a different result. Instead of 771A, I get 771 searching for signal meaning my SWM is working. I guess I got it hooked up correctly the first time but broke the SWM1/PWR. Thanks for giving me another option instead of having to buy another SWM-8. I just opened this cottage up this weekend so it seems it is most possible that this house had settled through winter and made the dish misaligned or there was a strong wind storm. But am I supposed to get ALL zero's?
 

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HDTVFreak07 said:
Oops, I meant the SWM-8. I might have damaged it but now I realized I damaged the SWM1/PWR. When I tried to disconnect the cable, the whole thing came out. Is there another option instead of having the SWM-8 replaced?
Not sure why you've started this thread, as you already started another about this problem.
If you've damaged the SWM 1/PWR connector, you may need to get the SWM8 replaced.
While you can power the SWM8 through the #3 legacy port, and connect the receiver(s) to the SWM #2, you can't leave the SWM #1 port not connected.
If you've damaged the connector to the point where you can't connect anything, then the SWM8 should be replaced.
 

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HDTVFreak07 said:
Finally got a different result. Instead of 771A, I get 771 searching for signal meaning my SWM is working. I guess I got it hooked up correctly the first time but broke the SWM1/PWR. Thanks for giving me another option instead of having to buy another SWM-8. I just opened this cottage up this weekend so it seems it is most possible that this house had settled through winter and made the dish misaligned or there was a strong wind storm. But am I supposed to get ALL zero's?
Not sure how you have the receiver connected, but if it isn't recognizing that its on a SWiM, then the 771a turns into 771.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
veryoldschool said:
You got a SWM8 right?



"PWR" is where the coax from the PI connects.

How tight did you tighten it? :eek2:
Yes, the illustrated one is what I got. Now, I've got signals on all but 101, 99c and SWM. The ones I got signals on are 90+ range. What does this mean? I'm thinking about stopping to a place that just might have SWM-8 (hope to God they do) and get one.

Edit: BTW, I'm on a Slimline-5.
 

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HDTVFreak07 said:
Yes, the illustrated one is what I got. Now, I've got signals on all but 101, 99c and SWM. The ones I got signals on are 90+ range. What does this mean? I'm thinking about stopping to a place that just might have SWM-8 (hope to God they do) and get one.

Edit: BTW, I'm on a Slimline-5.
The 101 & 99c come from the dish/LNB on the 13 & 18 volt lines. This might suggest there are problems on those two coax. You can swap one or both coax from the 13/18 volt 22 kHz over to the 13/18 volt, and if 101 & 99c then show something, the coax is the problem, and you should lose the 110/119/103 as they come off the two with the 22 kHz.

SWM showing zeros, suggests the receiver at least is on/seeing the SWM8, but with no signals from the dish, they can't show anything [seems they're looking at the 101]
 

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HDTVFreak07 said:
Yes, the illustrated one is what I got. Now, I've got signals on all but 101, 99c and SWM. The ones I got signals on are 90+ range. What does this mean? I'm thinking about stopping to a place that just might have SWM-8 (hope to God they do) and get one.

Edit: BTW, I'm on a Slimline-5.
Is all of SWM 0? 0s on the 101/99 usually indicates problems with those feed lines. VOS is right, if your SWM1 port is completely destroyed, the switch will not hold up over time. Having an unterminated port isn't a great idea either.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
dielray said:
Is all of SWM 0? 0s on the 101/99 usually indicates problems with those feed lines. VOS is right, if your SWM1 port is completely destroyed, the switch will not hold up over time. Having an unterminated port isn't a great idea either.
ALL of SWM is zero. I used the rf connector with a cap on in place of that first one so nothing gets in there. I plan to go and have the SWM-8 replaced because I do not like keeping anything that is broken even if it will be working.

I'm going to go ahead and change the order of the lines to the SWM but doubt it will work. I probably have a bad SWM anyway, most likely due to me connecting it wrong. I've saved the illustration of proper connection for when I get a new one. So disappointed that even though I didn't secured the connection too hard, when I disconnect it, it twisted the piece out of there. :mad: Must have been a piece of crap to begin with.
 

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HDTVFreak07 said:
I'm going to go ahead and change the order of the lines to the SWM but doubt it will work. I probably have a bad SWM anyway, most likely due to me connecting it wrong.
Changing the order of the lines will let you know if you have problems with 2 of the runs. It won't fix your problem, but will at least let you know there's a problem outside of the switch.

It's hard to explain, but when tightening the connector, you don't feel much force back once you hit the 30in/lbs. If you start to feel it push back, and continue to turn it, you've really overtightened the connector.
 

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dielray said:
It's hard to explain, but when tightening the connector, you don't feel much force back once you hit the 30in/lbs. If you start to feel it push back, and continue to turn it, you've really overtightened the connector.
Yes it is, and I try to use "snug" instead of "tight". It takes a light hand to feel/know when the connector starts to mate, which is where one needs to stop.
 
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