The Tech Thread: Show your work and face the heat.

That's a WB68, right? If so, may we start with you?

Installing the WB68 (page 2)
2. Mount the WB68 in a protected environment where it is shielded from rain and other water (sprinklers, etc.).

BK EH said:

That's a WB68, right? If so, may we start with you?

Installing the WB68 (page 2)
2. Mount the WB68 in a protected environment where it is shielded from rain and other water (sprinklers, etc.).

Click to expand...

:lol: :lol: Now I wish I had take pictures of every WB68 that lays flat on a roof, no drip loops or lines running straight into the switch.

I accept what you're saying but here in NYC it's near impossible to mount the switches indoor.

BK EH said:

That's a WB68, right? If so, may we start with you?

Installing the WB68 (page 2)
2. Mount the WB68 in a protected environment where it is shielded from rain and other water (sprinklers, etc.).

Click to expand...

Thank you for pointing that out. (It's in the WB68 manual, folks.)

I've mentioned it so many times I've retired from the effort.

Mertzen said:

:lol: :lol: Now I wish I had take pictures of every WB68 that lays flat on a roof, no drip loops or lines running straight into the switch.

I accept what you're saying but here in NYC it's near impossible to mount the switches indoor.

Click to expand...

Have you seen any pattern of exposed switches failing?

paulman182 said:

Have you seen any pattern of exposed switches failing?

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Properly mounted and protected ones rarely do.

Most of the time though it's the connectors that fail long before the switch. I can only remember one 4*4 switch that ever failed since the corrosion had migrated into the switch.

If you put some silicone dielectric grease in the plastic caps, or better, replace them with terminating resistor caps (stingers REMOVED!) with dielectric grease, the switch will be darn near water-tight.

I've ran into a few that failed, but the ports were exposed and they were mounted with the connecters vertical.

Great looking job, Mertzen.

Mertzen said:

Just a small space for the installer here to post pics of their work and most likely face some serious critique no matter how good it all looks or how it will pass a QC.

I'll start off. Note: all the work below the siding in from our good friend the cable guy. :lol:

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Neat looking job, however I would recommend weather seals on all connectors.
Also we won't allow our techs to attach to or mount to any vinyl siding(can
void warranty in some instances)...otherwise looking good man.

Mertzen said:

Just a small space for the installer here to post pics of their work and most likely face some serious critique no matter how good it all looks or how it will pass a QC.

I'll start off. Note: all the work below the siding in from our good friend the cable guy. :lol:

Click to expand...

I'm impressed. that's better than almost anything I've seen...

That is a nice, un-weather booted, and unnecessary ground block!

The latest from D* does acknowledge that you can ground to the 6x8.

I don't have anything exciting to show of the setup at my house, most of the excitement you cannot see as it is the crazy wire fishing that I did to get it installed. (my house is not your standard "box" type so there are plenty of odd angled walls and crazy, almost impossible, places to have to run the cables through).

Also I fail QC as I do not have a ground block, the Directv installers never put one in and to add one would be almost impossible (the Dish is on the roof, cable runs in via a vent, goes through the attic which has no pipes and down to the 2nd story where it goes to the receiver).

kornbln said:

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I've never seen a mount like that!

krock918316 said:

I've never seen a mount like that!

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is that good, or bad?

from what I am seeing that special mount may not have been needed,, you have a nice 2 X 6 right next to it to secure to.

kornbln said:

is that good, or bad?

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I still haven't decided! My first thought was :eek2:, but the side poles are being used. To me, that just doesn't look very secure. I don't think I would allow it to be installed on my property that way.

It is just fine, that mount is made to be done like that and it should work great.

Its like wall mounts, people fear their strength and think you need these big ones with tons of bolts and such to be secure, in reality even the two bolt models are VERY secure. Load ratings are usually very forgiving and in reality things are much stronger than they look in many cases.

I have a wall mount that attaches via 2 bolts and has a load rating of around 80lbs. I can hang off of it when it is fully extended! (~170lbs)

Two comments:

1. Too small bend radius in drip loops (should be >6" diameter)

2. Doesn't look like the ground is a valid bonding point (thinking in terms of NEC)

krock918316 said:

I still haven't decided! My first thought was :eek2:, but the side poles are being used. To me, that just doesn't look very secure. I don't think I would allow it to be installed on my property that way.

Click to expand...

I think we know, from a previous post by the poster that that arraignment did not work, it cracked the rafters.

I would have mounted a 2X10 between where the dish is now, and the side of the roof.
put another on the inside and then use lag bolts to secure the dish.