[kornbln]

I ran a #12 THHN solid copper wire from the dish to the grounding block. Doesn't DirecTV spec call for a #10? Anyways, I already had some #12 and the home improvement store I went to didn't sell green insulated #10, just bare. If I wanted to bring it up to "spec" and replace it with #10, would using uninsulated be okay? It's not going to deteriorate without insulation is it? What do installers typically use? I've used THHN outside for grounding before and the insulation starts to fade after a while because as far as I know, THHN isn't UV resistant. Also, #12 was hard enough to keep under the grounding screw on the dish so I'm not sure how a #10 would work out... Any ideas?

 

[Johnnie5000]

DirecTV spec is #17 solid copper or copper-clad steel from the dish to the ground block and #10 solid copper from the ground block to ground source. Using #12 from the dish is fine, perhaps overkill, but still good.

 

[kornbln]

DirecTV spec is #17 solid copper or copper-clad steel from the dish to the ground block and #10 solid copper from the ground block to ground source. Using #12 from the dish is fine, perhaps overkill, but still good.

okay... Isn't the #17 typically the messenger/grounding wire built into the coaxial cables?

 

[curt8403]

okay... Isn't the #17 typically the messenger/grounding wire built into the coaxial cables?

yes, that is what they use it for. grounding

 

[kornbln]

So what am I missing here? If the coax only has a #17, what's the point of spec'ing a #10 from the ground block?

 

[curt8403]

So what am I missing here? If the coax only has a #17, what's the point of spec'ing a #10 from the ground block?

because the braid (SHield) also has a ground from LNB to ground block.

 

[kornbln]

because the braid (SHield) also has a ground from LNB to ground block.

okay. that makes sense.

 

[2dogz]

So what am I missing here? If the coax only has a #17, what's the point of spec'ing a #10 from the ground block?

The #17 ground is designed to drain the built up static charge that results from wind hitting the dish (It's real and can knock someone on a ladder off balance and is not good for the electronics either). The coax shield provides the ground for the electronics in the dish. The #10 ground wire from the grounding block is a requirement of the National Electrical Code (NEC) that is required by your building inspector, D*, and your homeowner's insurance claim adjuster.

 

[kornbln]

The #17 ground is designed to drain the built up static charge that results from wind hitting the dish (It's real and can knock someone on a ladder off balance and is not good for the electronics either). The coax shield provides the ground for the electronics in the dish. The #10 ground wire from the grounding block is a requirement of the National Electrical Code (NEC) that is required by your building inspector, D*, and your homeowner's insurance claim adjuster.

Yep... my grounding block is using a #10, was just wondering why a #10 when the other side is only a #17... but sounds like the #10 is handling a combination of the coax shielding and the #17 so that makes more sense now.

 

[BattleZone]

It should also be clear that the 17 gauge ground wire is *supposed* to be solid copper only, and is only in NEC compliance when it is bonded to the coax. If you are running a ground wire independently, it must be 10 gauge solid copper.

 

[kornbln]

It should also be clear that the 17 gauge ground wire is *supposed* to be solid copper only, and is only in NEC compliance when it is bonded to the coax. If you are running a ground wire independently, it must be 10 gauge solid copper.

If I'm running a ground wire independently... which one? from the dish?

 

[curt8403]

If I'm running a ground wire independently... which one? from the dish?

I would run 10 gauge all the way if possible

 

[kornbln]

Like I said above, I'm running a 12 from the dish to the ground block then a 10 from ground block to the electrical panel. If you can get away with using the #17 on the coax itself, what's the difference in using something smaller than a #10 when it's independent?

 

[curt8403]

Like I said above, I'm running a 12 from the dish to the ground block then a 10 from ground block to the electrical panel. If you can get away with using the #17 on the coax itself, what's the difference in using something smaller than a #10 when it's independent?

no difference, but why buy 2 different gauges when you can buy one

 

[BattleZone]

Like I said above, I'm running a 12 from the dish to the ground block then a 10 from ground block to the electrical panel. If you can get away with using the #17 on the coax itself, what's the difference in using something smaller than a #10 when it's independent?

Because it's code. The code isn't always 100% logical.

Code says you must use 10 ga solid copper wire for grounding EXCEPT when the ground wire is bonded to the coax. In the latter case, from the dish to the ground block, 17 gauge solid copper wire (bonded to the coax) is allowed.

Now, given that I'd estimate that less than 10% of all DirecTV dishes are grounded per NEC code, and no one enforces it except DirecTV (and, I've been told, the state of Nevada), you can use 12 ga if you wish. It's better than nothing by a long shot, and most dishes have NOTHING.

 

[kornbln]

Because it's code. The code isn't always 100% logical.

Code says you must use 10 ga solid copper wire for grounding EXCEPT when the ground wire is bonded to the coax. In the latter case, from the dish to the ground block, 17 gauge solid copper wire (bonded to the coax) is allowed.

Now, given that I'd estimate that less than 10% of all DirecTV dishes are grounded per NEC code, and no one enforces it except DirecTV (and, I've been told, the state of Nevada), you can use 12 ga if you wish. It's better than nothing by a long shot, and most dishes have NOTHING.

Yeah, my installer was about to leave with my dish ungrounded until a DirecTV quality control inspector showed up Still didn't like his work though so I redid quite a bit of it... He didn't use a dedicated grounding screw; just one of the bolts on the dish mast. I redid that with a self-tapping grounding screw in the designated hole on the mast mount. Even went as far as testing the continuity of the ground with a meter... Since it goes from dish -> grounding block -> electrical panel -> cold water pipe [opposite side of house].