[Badfish740]

I've had Dish Network for about four years. We opted for it when we moved into our new home because it was bundled with the local voice/data provider's services. I was unprepared for the install the first time because I had never had a satellite system before and didn't realize that it wasn't as simple as running one line to each box. In addition I had ripped all of the existing coaxial cable out of the house because all of it looked as old (house was built in 1968) as the house itself. The fact that I hadn't run my own wiring already meant that the tech had to run lines down the side of the house, drill holes in the walls, etc... My goal is to bring the lines into the attic near the satellite dish and then distribute them from there, fishing them down through the walls. I just need a good understanding of what needs to go where. I diagram detailing installation training for Dish techs learning to install the Hopper/Joey system:

Is this the most straightforward way to install the system? One question I have is for right now I am only going to be getting the Hopper and one Joey as we only have two TVs. I was thinking of running the line from the node into the attic to a splitter, running one line off of the splitter to the Joey, and then placing a terminator on the other outlet of the splitter for now. That way it's already there and when I get another TV/another Joey I'll just remove the terminator and run the line. Is there any reason NOT to do it that way, ie: should I just run a single line to the Joey and not use the splitter at all? Then of course I'll run the other line to the Hopper as shown on the diagram along with ethernet. This will be easy since the Hopper will be in the basement in very close proximity to the router. I know these are real noob questions, but I just want to make sure that I'm totally prepared when the installer arrives.

 

[Grandude]

Looks like you have got it right and I would do it that way. My only question is, will the Hopper be near the primary HD TV? I would not have it in a remote location from the primary TV.

 

[Badfish740]

Looks like you have got it right and I would do it that way. My only question is, will the Hopper be near the primary HD TV? I would not have it in a remote location from the primary TV.

Thanks-The Hopper will be located with the primary TV, which is the 60" LED flat panel in the basement. The secondary TV, paired with the Joey, is in the living room. One more thing-obviously I'll be doing all of the cable runs/fishing myself, I was just going to buy bulk cable, run it, cut to length, and leave the bare ends for when the technician comes. I'd rather leave it to them to do to make sure that the crimps are done correctly, plus that means I don't have to spend another $50 on a crimping tool. I found a 250' spool of RG6 at Lowes for about $40:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_1414-295-56...0&Ntt=rg6&pl=1&currentURL=?Ntt=rg6&facetInfo=

Any reason not to buy coax from a big box retailer? I figure buying in bulk like this should cover me for now and for any future TVs I add.

 

[RASCAL01]

That is what I did when I installed wiring for my Hoppers, plus I also did the ends.

 

[Badfish740]

That is what I did when I installed wiring for my Hoppers, plus I also did the ends.

Did the installer say anything about the cable or fittings not being on the "approved" list of Dish Network parts? I ask because someone else brought it up on another forum and said that depending on the tech they might refuse to install using "non-approved" parts.

 

[Grandude]

Did the installer say anything about the cable or fittings not being on the "approved" list of Dish Network parts? I ask because someone else brought it up on another forum and said that depending on the tech they might refuse to install using "non-approved" parts.

Seems to me that any logical tech would be happy that all the hard work had already been done.
My cabling is a nightmare since house is on a slab and roof design such that it is impossible to fish down from the attic to the outside walls where my TV's are located. Add to that the fact that it is also a nightmare just pulling cable through the attic. I've done all the cabling needed for previous 722/622 installation but now worry that the cable may not be up to Moca standards for a Hopper install.
House built in 2000 and RG6 runs to all rooms but unmarked so I have no idea whether it will be good enough for Hopper install.

 

[Grandude]

I found a 250' spool of RG6 at Lowes for about $40:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_1414-295-56...0&Ntt=rg6&pl=1&currentURL=?Ntt=rg6&facetInfo=

Any reason not to buy coax from a big box retailer? I figure buying in bulk like this should cover me for now and for any future TVs I add.

Can you check the cable to see if it has the "swept to" spec listed? Needs to be to 3000Mb. (For the Hopper, not necessary for the Joey(s))

 

[Badfish740]

Can you check the cable to see if it has the "swept to" spec listed? Needs to be to 3000Mb. (For the Hopper, not necessary for the Joey(s))

I looked-nothing listed on the packaging-I'll try googling the MFG and see if that gets me anywhere.

*EDIT*

I found the manufacturer, but no "swept to" spec-here is what they list:

SPECIFICATIONS
• UL 444
• UL 13
• UL 1685 (UL 1581 Verticle Tray) Flame Test
• Nec Articles 800 & 725
• RoHS Compliant

SOUTHWIRE COAXIAL TYPE RG 59/U, 75 OHM CABLE

MECHANICAL:
• Conductor: 20 AWG copper clad steel .032"
• Insulaton: 56 mil wall of foamed polyethylene to a nominal diameter of .144"
• Shield: Overall Braid: 95% Copper Braid
• Binder: Optional
• Jacket: 38 mil black 60°C flame retardant polyvinyl chloride with a nominal diameter of .240"
• Print: White ink: RG 59/U 20 AWG TYPE CATV (UL) E179332
• Put-up: 500 Ft Spools; Other put-ups available per special order

ELECTRICAL:
• Voltage Rating: 300 Volts
• D.C Resistance (Nom): 10.15 OHMS per 1000 FT at 68 Deg. F
• Velocity of Propagation (Nom): 79%
• Impedance (Nom): 75 OHMS
• Capacitance (Nom): 18 pF/ft
• TYPICAL PRINT LEGEND: 1722

 

[Dmtalon]

Did the installer say anything about the cable or fittings not being on the "approved" list of Dish Network parts? I ask because someone else brought it up on another forum and said that depending on the tech they might refuse to install using "non-approved" parts.

I just had Dish installed Monday. I had an existing RG6 line from Directv. But we ended up having to run two new runs because of a stray drill bit on the installer's part. No big deal.

But one thing he noted is that on some fittings I had, they were compression fittings and how that was good. It sounded like they would have to replace crimp connections, but compression fittings are ok.

Take that for what its worth from one install tech.

 

[RASCAL01]

Did the installer say anything about the cable or fittings not being on the "approved" list of Dish Network parts? I ask because someone else brought it up on another forum and said that depending on the tech they might refuse to install using "non-approved" parts.

I did the install my self as I am a beta tester for the Hopper. Cable needs to be RG6.

 

[Grandude]

I looked-nothing listed on the packaging-I'll try googling the MFG and see if that gets me anywhere.

*EDIT*

I found the manufacturer, but no "swept to" spec-here is what they list:

SPECIFICATIONS
• UL 444
• UL 13
• UL 1685 (UL 1581 Verticle Tray) Flame Test
• Nec Articles 800 & 725
• RoHS Compliant

SOUTHWIRE COAXIAL TYPE RG 59/U, 75 OHM CABLE

Whoa..............Can't use RG59 for Hopper(s).... Must be RG6

 

[Badfish740]

Whoa..............Can't use RG59 for Hopper(s).... Must be RG6

Whoops-just realized now I put up the wrong specs. The stuff I saw in the store was stamped RG6.

 

[Grandude]

I'm getting very close to upgrading to H/J system.
I want to verify that all my cables will work, specifically the two to my primary TV and one to my back bedroom TV.

My questions are:

1. If I purchase a Hopper and single or duo node, will I be able to test that the three lines will work up to 3000Mhz or will I need to have a Joey installed to for the test?

The cabling in my house is so very difficult that I think an installer might not complete the install if he found we needed to pull new cables. (House on slab and truss attic and no access to outside walls within attic)

2. Will the testing with one Hopper pretty much prove that the cables are OK without activating that simple system as I would want to continue using my VIP stuff until an installer came to install another Hopper/Joey to do the official install?

Hopper with sling now two hundred at Dish Depot making this an interesting exercise, I know I would need to get a single or duo node adding to the cost a little for my test system.

3. Are 75ohm terminators really needed if lots of ports on node will have no connections?

My final system as planned in my mind would be two and maybe three Hoppers and two Joeys.

If my current cables aren't OK, I will then be able to take my time and do the attic crawling, etc. to get the cables upgraded.