Only 2 + an input ? You can only use that for 2 Wallys. The input is for a wing dish. If it has 3 outputs plus the wing input, you're golden.

Can you take a picture of the LNB so we can see the coax connectors ?

You might be ok with that LNB with the addition of a switch

 

It looks like this.
https://www.amazon.com/Dish-1000-2-...3DHA/ref=pd_aw_lpo_23_bs_img_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=TFYA07BFFAMPN7PV3KRZ

 

You will need a DPP LNB the hybrid won't work for more than a single Wally unless you can locate one of the new channel stack splitters.

 

All this is new to me. Do you have a part number for this magical splitter?

Is there a disadvantage to using a dpp lnb over what I have and that splitter?

 

What you have is really more for Hoppers.

This would work for your situation. One cable to each of 3 Wallys.
If you need more than this - Look into DPP44 switches.

Dish Network 1000.2 LNB High Definition HD DP Pro Plus LNBF 119 110 129 | eBay

 

What you have is really more for Hoppers.

This would work for your situation. One cable to each of 3 Wallys.
If you need more than this - Look into DPP44 switches.

Dish Network 1000.2 LNB High Definition HD DP Pro Plus LNBF 119 110 129 | eBay

Thanks, I am returning the Dish I ordered due to the LNBF and it missing hardware/brackets. I am looking at this one now. The problem is the pictures show 2 different LNBFs. From this description would I receive the correct LNBF? I just want to be sure there are not multiple "Dish Pro Plus" LNBs.

• Dish Pro Plus (DPP) LNB (looks at 110, 119 & 129 together also has an lnb port in for any additional sat)

Dish Network 1000.2 SATELLITE ANTENNA Western Arc 110 119 129 West Triple LNB HD 691162463217 | eBay

 

yeah, you'll need replace your LNBF to kind DPP+ (it's not a "dish", it's active part of it )

 

oops !
check second and third pictures ! there are different LNBFs (2 and 3 outputs / 1 input ) !
which one you'll get ? who knows ?

 

OK - I've deaLT WITH THIS SITE BEFORE - THEY know what they are doing. THIS is what you should order -

https://store.dishdepot.com/dish-10002-with-west-arc-lnbf

 

Well I tried to set everything up this weekend and I got no signal. My zip is 77364 if there is another website yall use that is more accurate.

Here is what I got off an app for setup. I ended up putting the dish where I marked an X in red. The skew/polarization was maxed out and had the dish almost completely sideways.

Dish Networks website said to do this based on the zip code. Which lines up with what the app said except for the skew/polarization.
Portable Dish Pointing Angle Guide | MyDISH | DISH Customer Support
ELEVATION
45
SKEW
124
AZIMUTH
215

Which one is right?

Questions:
1) Since my LNBF has 3 lines going into it, does that mean that line 1 gets 119, line 2 gets 110, line 3 gets 129? So basically each line gets its own satellite? If this is true will the wally work off 1 satellite (from what I have read it will only work if all 3 satellites are picked up).

2) The wally is looking for a switch during setup. I don't think I have one, do I need one?

3) Does anyone have advice on how to point the satellite and setup each wally with this setup?

Also I ran this cable from the satellite to the connections that were in the attic. The builder pre-ran the cable from each room up to one point in the attic. Hopefully this cable is okay for this install.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Southwire-500-ft-18-AWG-RG6-Black-Coax-Cable/3332652

 

Dish's marking on the skew is likely to be different from the aiming sites. Use the Dish table to get the correct values.

EACH Wally needs a cable to the LNB. So, you will need 3 cables coming from the Dish down to your common point, then use barrel connectors to join the ends in the attic.

When aiming the dish - set the skew then don't touch it ever again. You will see a pointer on the dish, along with degree marks for this.

Next, use some aluminum foil to cover the 2 outside LNBs (110 and 129). Aim the dish so the weakest non-spotbeam transponder is at the max value you can get. then pull off the foil and do the check dish installation.After one wally is recieving, then hookup the other 2 and also do a check switch on them as well.

COAX CABLE - in the early days, as long as it was RG6, it was fine. Now, Dish has requirements for the cable to be swept to pass a certain frequency range (typically 2.2 GHz now).

If you can't get it aimed, it might be easier to just have an installer come and do it for you.

 

Dish's marking on the skew is likely to be different from the aiming sites. Use the Dish table to get the correct values.

I think this is one of my main problems, dish pointer says 34.12, dish network says 124. As you can see that is a huge change. 34.12 is near the bottom and 124 is near the top.

EACH Wally needs a cable to the LNB. So, you will need 3 cables coming from the Dish down to your common point, then use barrel connectors to join the ends in the attic.

This is exactly how I have it setup now.

When aiming the dish - set the skew then don't touch it ever again. You will see a pointer on the dish, along with degree marks for this.

I was watching some setup videos this morning. I set my elevation and skew based on the bolt being centered. The videos showed a marking/metal part as a reference point so I bet I am off a few clicks.

Next, use some aluminum foil to cover the 2 outside LNBs (110 and 129). Aim the dish so the weakest non-spotbeam transponder is at the max value you can get. then pull off the foil and do the check dish installation.After one wally is recieving, then hookup the other 2 and also do a check switch on them as well.

I don't have an inline meter. Do I need to get one? I was hoping the wally would show me my signal level. Also should I have the wally hooked up to line 1 to do this?

COAX CABLE - in the early days, as long as it was RG6, it was fine. Now, Dish has requirements for the cable to be swept to pass a certain frequency range (typically 2.2 GHz now).

I believe it said 3.0 GHx on the actual cable, so I am assuming that it is good.

If you can't get it aimed, it might be easier to just have an installer come and do it for you.

I don't want them to flag me, as I am setting this up as a tailgate/RV setup so that I can have TV on the weekend when I am at the lakehouse.

See comments in red.

 

I've found the skew listings at DishPointer.com to be much more reliable than those listed in the Dish charts in many cases. Going just by ZIP code, there can be several degrees difference depending on the shape and size of the ZIP geographical area and the dish location within it. Just look at the difference between the skew angles for some adjoining ZIP's on the chart, and then think about what happens if you're near a region's perimeter. The chart is based on everyone being at the geographical center. As an RV'er that changes locations and re-aims a triple LNB dish frequently, I learned long ago that the Dish charts were not the most reliable source for peak signals on multiple satellites. The chart settings will generally work, they just don't always work the best.

 

Are you looking at the correct arc and multi-LNB 1000.2 dish settings on DishPointer for your address or coordinates? The multi-LNB listings are towards the bottom of the satellite list.

 

That must have been the variation issue. I was just putting in sat 119 in my app.

According to dishpointer.com I should be at 124.1 for multi lnb. Skew problem solved.

 

You want the skew mark like your picture - red mark up.

 

At least the Dish chart hit it almost right on for your location.

 

Tried to get through setup yesterday and I got to the activation screen, called dish to activate, and after 10 min received the activation signal. Now it says complete signal loss and this is what I see in diagnosis.

This was connected directly to the first line on the lnb (119 sat). I don't know why 129 shows up. Any help to get further would be appreciated. Tried to get dish help and was transferred twice and then ended up with RV tech support which was closed on holidays.

 

I don't know why 129 shows

did you put alum foil over 110 & 129W LNBFs keep only one 119W (middle one) and re-aim the dish

 

If you want your DIsh system to work correctly - you need all 3 slots working properly. Period. If you don't - you will not get all your programming, or, if they make changes based on everyone having the standard arcs - you may lose reception completely.

 

So just talked with dish outdoors for an hour and still can't get it. They said adjust sat more but I think I'm hitting the numbers.

Also they verified my lnb has a switch built in so all the wallys will see all 3 sat.

I'm at the point of calling in a local tech to use their expensive aiming tool to lock it in, which kills me since i like doing things myself. Don't know what else to do.

 

make marks of your current angles, then compare to tech's adjustment

 

Your elevation is at 38, not 45. Since your elevation is wrong, your 119 LNB didn't start singing until you hit the 129 satellite.

 

Your elevation is at 38, not 45. Since your elevation is wrong, your 119 LNB didn't start singing until you hit the 129 satellite.

Feeling really dumb. I will give it another shot next time I go up there. If i can't hit it I will just get a tech out.

Also I believe I have the elevation set just a hair over 34. The setup video I saw online said to go off that solid piece in the back. Should I be going off center of the bolt?

 

the edge of that solid piece needs to be slid to 44-45, then once you have 119 found = then dial it in on the weakest "TRANSPONDER" (NOT "SPOTBEAM"). Then do your checkswitch so it can see 110 and 129 as well, then hookup your other two Wallys and do a check switch n them as well.

 

Happy new year everyone! I got back at it yesterday. I adjusted the elevation up to 45 and got 119 to read 59 on strength. All 3 Wally’s are activated but they all are showing different channels.

1 Wally has no locals and some HDs and no reception on other channels.
It only shows 119 on diagnostic no other satellites are shown


1 Wally gets locals a small amount of HDs, everything else comes in SD.
It shows 119 and 110 with checks but conn has an X.

1 Wally gets everything in HD and is perfect
This has all 3 satellites with checks (119, 110, 129)

I don’t see how they have different reception if they are sharing the same switch/lnb. Any advice would be appreciated.

 

I just moved the good Wally to each location and got full channels on all of them leading me to think the Wally’s are bad.

 

AFTER you hooked up EACH Wally to the LNB, you did do the Test Installation on ALL of them ?

 

Nick, what this amounts to is that you have to do a test switch installation for each and every receiver. IOW - they do not pass that that information from receiver to receiver. This test witch does 2 things - first, it identifies which switch combination (and yes - that is exactly what I meant - with the oldest Dish receivers, it eventually had to go through 38 combinations of LNB and switches) the receiver is talking to, and second - what satellites are on which LNB. After it has these identified, the receiver then goes through and downloads the EPG info for each satellite , and resolves any duplicates for a particular channel (ask me how I know this one sometime ). I don't know how DirectTV works, but I have been a Dish subscriber since Oct 2000 (my original receiver was a 4700, with 2 SW21 switches and dual Legacy LNBs on a Dish 500), and I've seen just about every generation of Dish LNB / switch out there (or at least how to use them).

 

That is what fixed it. I got full channels on all. Thanks for all the help.

 

I'm also curious if I can make this setup work.

I have 4 bedrooms and 3 wallys. If I want to move a wally back and forth between bedrooms can I take the coax coming from the satellite and run a splitter to both bedrooms. That way the signal goes to both rooms and I just have to disconnect the box and reconnect it if I want to watch tv in the other room.

If that will work does it need to be a certain type of splitter?

 

No splitters. For what you're asking for, get a DPP44 SWITCH. All 3 cables from the LNB go into the Sat side of the switch. THen all cables from the Wallys get fed from the DPP44 switch. This includes the cable going the room that you will be sharing the Wally . After you put the DPP44 switch in, then do the Test Installation on all Wallys (so they know they use the DPP44 as the switch).

 

One other possibility you might consider -

If the Wally has a builtin rF modulator (usually channel 3/4 - NTSC (i.e. analog) ) - you might consider using that to feed room 2 . Or, you could buy that separately.

 

The Wally does not have a composite NTSC output port. An external modulator can be added though, that uses the component output ports to create an NTSC RF composite output.