[Nickb1907]

did you put alum foil over 110 & 129W LNBFs keep only one 119W (middle one) and re-aim the dish

Yes and no. I did that trying to figure out what lines went to which lnb input. I didn't try it again when I hooked directly to the line 1. I'll give it a shot.

I'm still wondering if wally needs to see all 3 satelittles to work. And how I have it setup would allow it to just see 1.

 

[scooper]

If you want your DIsh system to work correctly - you need all 3 slots working properly. Period. If you don't - you will not get all your programming, or, if they make changes based on everyone having the standard arcs - you may lose reception completely.

 

[P Smith]

I'm still wondering if wally needs to see all 3 satelittles to work.

for sure any receiver would work with one/two/three sats; problem is where is the program(s) you want to watch ?

 

[Nickb1907]

So just talked with dish outdoors for an hour and still can't get it. They said adjust sat more but I think I'm hitting the numbers.

Also they verified my lnb has a switch built in so all the wallys will see all 3 sat.

I'm at the point of calling in a local tech to use their expensive aiming tool to lock it in, which kills me since i like doing things myself. Don't know what else to do.

 

[P Smith]

make marks of your current angles, then compare to tech's adjustment

 

[scooper]

Your elevation is at 38, not 45. Since your elevation is wrong, your 119 LNB didn't start singing until you hit the 129 satellite.

 

[Nickb1907]

Your elevation is at 38, not 45. Since your elevation is wrong, your 119 LNB didn't start singing until you hit the 129 satellite.

Feeling really dumb. I will give it another shot next time I go up there. If i can't hit it I will just get a tech out.

Also I believe I have the elevation set just a hair over 34. The setup video I saw online said to go off that solid piece in the back. Should I be going off center of the bolt?

 

[scooper]

the edge of that solid piece needs to be slid to 44-45, then once you have 119 found = then dial it in on the weakest "TRANSPONDER" (NOT "SPOTBEAM"). Then do your checkswitch so it can see 110 and 129 as well, then hookup your other two Wallys and do a check switch n them as well.

 

[Nickb1907]

Happy new year everyone! I got back at it yesterday. I adjusted the elevation up to 45 and got 119 to read 59 on strength. All 3 Wally’s are activated but they all are showing different channels.

1 Wally has no locals and some HDs and no reception on other channels.
It only shows 119 on diagnostic no other satellites are shown


1 Wally gets locals a small amount of HDs, everything else comes in SD.
It shows 119 and 110 with checks but conn has an X.

1 Wally gets everything in HD and is perfect
This has all 3 satellites with checks (119, 110, 129)

I don’t see how they have different reception if they are sharing the same switch/lnb. Any advice would be appreciated.

 

[Nickb1907]

I just moved the good Wally to each location and got full channels on all of them leading me to think the Wally’s are bad.

 

[scooper]

AFTER you hooked up EACH Wally to the LNB, you did do the Test Installation on ALL of them ?

 

[Nickb1907]

That is what fixed it. I got full channels on all. Thanks for all the help.

 

[Nickb1907]

I'm also curious if I can make this setup work.

I have 4 bedrooms and 3 wallys. If I want to move a wally back and forth between bedrooms can I take the coax coming from the satellite and run a splitter to both bedrooms. That way the signal goes to both rooms and I just have to disconnect the box and reconnect it if I want to watch tv in the other room.

If that will work does it need to be a certain type of splitter?

 

[scooper]

No splitters. For what you're asking for, get a DPP44 SWITCH. All 3 cables from the LNB go into the Sat side of the switch. THen all cables from the Wallys get fed from the DPP44 switch. This includes the cable going the room that you will be sharing the Wally . After you put the DPP44 switch in, then do the Test Installation on all Wallys (so they know they use the DPP44 as the switch).

 

[scooper]

One other possibility you might consider -

If the Wally has a builtin rF modulator (usually channel 3/4 - NTSC (i.e. analog) ) - you might consider using that to feed room 2 . Or, you could buy that separately.

 

[NYDutch]

One other possibility you might consider -

If the Wally has a builtin rF modulator (usually channel 3/4 - NTSC (i.e. analog) ) - you might consider using that to feed room 2 . Or, you could buy that separately.

The Wally does not have a composite NTSC output port. An external modulator can be added though, that uses the component output ports to create an NTSC RF composite output.

 

[scooper]

Ok NYDutch -
Just for clarification, You're saying there is NO RF Coax modulator output, but there are yellow composite video plus red and white analog audio jacks . This is what you can put the external modulator on (this will generate only SD video). Component video is 3 video (Y, Pr, Pb) with the 2 analog audio (look on the back of a Hopper for an example) .

 

[P Smith]

Ok NYDutch -
Just for clarification, You're saying there is NO RF Coax modulator output, but there are yellow composite video plus red and white analog audio jacks . This is what you can put the external modulator on (this will generate only SD video). Component video is 3 video (Y, Pr, Pb) with the 2 analog audio (look on the back of a Hopper for an example) .

correct
just FYI - you can buy a modulator with component input; and if you could shell out $300 - ATSC MODULATOR (Amazon,ebay.etc) supporting HD

 

[NYDutch]

Ok NYDutch -
Just for clarification, You're saying there is NO RF Coax modulator output, but there are yellow composite video plus red and white analog audio jacks . This is what you can put the external modulator on (this will generate only SD video). Component video is 3 video (Y, Pr, Pb) with the 2 analog audio (look on the back of a Hopper for an example) .

I just double checked, and stand corrected. The Wally has composite video and L/R audio jacks. Modulators for that are readily available, even at Walmart, for around $20 or so.

 

[scooper]

I've tried those $20 modulators and was not impressed with the results. Look at solidsignal.com (there are other sites a well - www.smarthome.com was pretty good as well) for better ones (UHF) - just make sure that the channel you select is not the same as a local station is using (the real RF channel - not the virtual one that the station uses in their branding). To avoid that I would suggest using a channel above 55 .